Best way to work a trade deal for a TJ?

You cannot insult a car dealer. They have heard it all before. (On the other hand, if you offer something completely out of line, they may think you are crazy.) I paid invoice plus $150 for a Cherokee once. The dealership across town was adding a "Market Rate Adjustment" of $1,500-$3,500 to every vehicle's retail price. I told them I didn't want to pay it, and the next offer was $150 over invoice. You can insult me, so I took this information to the second dealer, who sold me the Cherokee, for what I wanted to pay. The term "invoice" is completely misleading, because they get a kick back from the manufacturer. They can live off the invoice price, maybe even less.

A Wrangler Sport is a gas guzzler, and with la bencina at $3.00 a gallon maybe you can do even better. Then of course they will try to get their money back on your trade in. It is all a game. It is one-sided though. You can pay more than you want to, or accept less than you should, but they never will. I think that you are going to be disappointed with the offer they make for your '98. They do have to make money, after all, and it is not so easy, even for a dealer, to sell a seven year old vehicle at blue book retail.

Earle

how low is low for your miles on the 98 sport??

69strat did pass the time by typing:

I go to the local credit union/bank and look up the vehicles price.

Know your price before you set foot in the dealership and remember it's your money. They want it, you want it. Who wants it more? ;)

One source:

Invoice (as stated on the dealers tag) is meaningless. Figure there are a lot of other things (dealer hold-back, incentives) so tend to start 20% below the invoice number they give. Times are tough for low MPG vehicles now so use that to your advantage. They need to move stuff before they have to pay taxes on the inventory.

And about that used vehicle... before you go to trade it in, clean it inside and out, clean off any stains under the hood, wipe down the engine, etc. Figure what you would want it to look like if you were buying it. And like above, know the price. Argue trade in separately from the new vehicle. Don't let them tell you they are cutting a good price because your buying, that's just the sales equivalent of a reach-around.

About making the deal.. Be prepared to walk away and don't let them bounce you between sales, manager, sales-manager, the boss, the finance dude and his boss.. etc. They do this to wear you out. If they start this dance demand they all come in the same room because your not going to put up with being jerked around.

And watch out for the "optional extras" like paint sealant, rust proofing, vin marking, stain treatment (otherwise known as scotch-guard) because all those are simply pure profit and most are done at the factory anyway. In some cases aftermarket rust-proofing voids the factory warranty. In all cases it's cheaper to buy a can and do it yourself. As for vin etching of glass, it's also meaningless. If your insurance offers a deduction then go to PepBoys/AutoZone/CanadianTyre and buy a vin marking kit. Otherwise all vin marking does is let you know that's your broken window laying on the ground. Only T-Tops benefit from this marking.

Also (man this is going on isn't it) when you set the price make them know you are talking final price with no other charges and stick to it. Any additional charges (advertisement, delivery, etc) should be grounds for you to walk out.

This goes on don't it? :)

Finally (for now) get the loan numbers from a bank so you can determine if the dealer is giving you a better offer (not usual).

Ok,, finally.. rilly :) Set a time, say one hour, tell them in advance you will not wait any more than that, when that time is up, get up and leave. Even if they are "real close to making the deal".

One last thing. ^_^ The sales folk are not your friends. They want you to feel emotion for them, some of the worst even drag in family and kid problems to make you feel better about giving them a fatter commission.

I'll shaddup now.

[snip good advice]

The last time he bought a new vehicle a friend of mine told the sales rep upfront: 1) If you take my driver's license into the back to make a photocopy, we're done (it's a delay tactic designed to keep you in the showroom). 2) I talk to you and only you. If you leave and come back with a manager, we're done. 3) If you try to sell me options beyond what I already told you I wanted, we're done. 4) The factory invoice for this vehicle is [this much]. Now, let's talk.

I was going to say "and theft recovery" but if the cops are relying on a VIN etched into your window you don't want the vehicle back anyway.

The last time I bought a used vehicle I told the sales guy "I want to be out the door and driving away for under [this much]." I got it.

You go into the dealership looking to rape,plunder and steal. You lowball them on every opportunity. Do not give them a chance to make one dollar on you.

That's their mentality, so you better be from the same mold or you will be taken.

Good Luck! Jim Smith

Sell your jeep on eBay. Seems like most have more dollars than sense when it comes to bidding on Jeeps.

Good Luck! Jim Smith

Here is what I did in 2001. I got "their" price online via many websites that have this information. I figured out their cost of the options I wanted. I found out what dealer rebates were offered and knew what "holdback" was and the cost. I then faxed several dealers for their price and stated I was ordering the Jeep. That takes care of holdback. One dealer came back with the best price. I sold my trade in via the newspaper. The trade in was clean inside and out and I got top dollar.

The prices from dealer to dealer was substantial. It took a lot of work but it worked very well.

Andy

2001 TJ

I agree 100%, but be subtle about it. You don't want to wear your pirate costume, or your sharkskin suit. They will figure out, who they are dealing with, soon enough. ;o)

Earle

Lots of things to think about there, thanks DougW.

My 98 has very low miles (30K) Still in great shape, but a little salt corrosion here and there. Cat converter never went out on it!! Has Dana44 and dual top. No issues, just standard maintenence. I've been wanting a new one as they are supposedly going to discontinue the TJ next year, and don't think I'll like the new model as much.

I could add a bunch of stuff I want to mine like AC, CD sub woofer, new seats or covers at least, paint job, new carpet. Also I'm sure some bigger repairs will be coming soon, since it's 8 years old. But I'd be happier with a new one with all the stuff I want, plus warranty.

I'm a little familar with the kick back and stuff. I don't consider the $1K cashback, until after the negotiating is done. That's why I want to negotiate one price at a time. I would be comfortable with $200 over Edmunds invoice price for the new tj. $9-10K trade for mine ( i know blue book is less), then the incentive and all that.

I may wait until the end of month as that seems they are more hungry for sales.

I just received my '06 TJ Rubicon that I ordered on August 15th. Picked it up at the dealer yesterday, October 10th.

I would suggest that you negotiate the new TJ price without a trade. Just tell the dealer that you plan to sell your '98 privately. Right now there is a $1000 cash rebate on Wranglers. Offer the dealer invoice. No need to offer $200 or even $100 over invoice. The actual invoice price includes an "advertising fee" which may be somewhere between $200 - $400. Even at factory invoice price, the dealer is still making quite a bit of profit.

After you make your best deal on the new TJ, then ask about a trade-in price. Both the new price and used vehicle prices can be found at

Also, go to

and price out the TJ with exactly the options that you want, or exactly the options on the unit on the dealer's lot that you want. Then print out the Jeep Warehouse price and take it into the dealer. I'm pretty sure they will match that price.

Tom

Great advice Mabar. I didn't know about those sites or the "advertising fee". thanx!

I've always found unexpected silence to be a good tool. Try to make the salesman do all the talking, and when he attempts to switch things back to you, playing the usual games like "What will it take for you to buy this vehicle tonight?", just sit there with a dumb, disinterested, or perplexed look on your face. Salesmen like to keep the banter going back and forth, and even a short period of silence before responding to their questions throws off their routine. For some it's really unnerving and almost drives them nuts.

For my final negotiations, I try to hit the showroom about 7-8 PM on a Saturday evening near the end of the month, preferably on a nice day when salesmen are tired from a long day of haggling with customers. If you're really lucky, the salesman might have been so busy that he missed his supper. That leaves about an hour to do some "friendly" chit-chat and play around with the numbers before things begin to get ugly. Stay in your chair and don't budge an inch until you sense that folks are beginning to get restless. A good sign is when other salesmen and office staff begin turning down lights in the showroom, locking doors, getting ready to go home, etc. Then make your best offer and be prepared to sit there until the sun comes up in the morning if necessary :-)

Remember that a cardinal rule of most dealerships is "never let the customer walk away". So they can't ask you to come back tomorrow, but must stay and deal until you sign on the dotted line. Time will be on your side, because regardless of whether they are tired, hungry, or angry, they have to get the sale *tonight*.

Mike

I found that test driving the car, and not getting too excited over it helps set up the hagling process. Also, make sure you drive to the dealership in a good car. That way when they want to charge you more, you can always say "I don't need this car, and would need a better deal to consider it." That is how I talked a dealer into taking $3000 off the price of a used Grand Cherokee.

Also, you can get more money for your old car by selling it yourself.