Black Diamond Suspension Lift Installed-questions

1. You could get adjustable lower control arms, but 5 deg of caster is fine. You'll never get 7.

1. Loose trackbar? Check all bolts for tightness. Then do it again in a week or so.

2. Did you center your axle and then set toe?

JVC wrote:

Yeah, after doing a little research I'm not so worried about the caster.

I checked, and retourqued both track bars and the noise is still there. I managed to figure out that it only happens when making a sharp right turn and hitting a bump, or rut with the front right tire. For example, making a right into the driveway at my post office this afternoon. Sounds really bad, but I can't find anything that's loose or rubbing.

So far as the centering the axle and stuff, I had it aligned by a shop.

Jay

twaldr> 1. You could get adjustable lower control arms, but 5 deg of caster is

Most swb Jeeps need 5-7 degrees of caster or they'l be fairly squirrely. If you're as close as you say (4.7 & 5 degrees) you should be ok.

TJs have a low pinion front axle and you may encounter a bit of driveline-induced vibration if you increase the caster. I'm not certain about your year TJ, but most I've seen have a cv-type inner u-joint that should reduce the driveline vibes. If you don't have one you might look into a custom shaft.

Did you have to install transfer case drop tubes/brakets/pucks/whatever? If so, that probably caused the t-case/transmission to slide back a bit (I know mine did on my 4" lift). When that happens, it makes it a lot harder to get into 2, 4, and R. My kit recommended removing the boot around the shifter (all the way down on the tub) and filing away the back edge. That'll allow the shifter to move properly into each gear. You COULD just get an SYE kit and be done with it. ;-) I did and it works great.

Another thought: My shifter was stopped by the Tuffy console. I removed the plastic sleeve that held the upper rubber boot (the part you see) to the metal base. That gave the shifter enough room. Of course the boot flapped around until I got that SYE and put the drivetrain back where it should have been...

Eric

On my YJ, I had same problem - I removed the boot, marked where shifter was hitting body, then removed the shifter and used a torch to heat it and bend it forward a little so it wouldn't hit - took a couple of tries to get it where I wanted it, but pretty easy overall.

Tookie - Denham Springs, LA

88YJ, 4" lift, 33" TSLs, Lock-Rights PosiLock, 4.10s

Eric, Did you remove your t-case lowering kit after the SYE? My TJ has both now, and I was considering doing away with the t-case kit. I don't have any shifting problems or vibrations.

Did you put sway bar disconnects in? My TJ pops there when I make swift turns on bumps. That could be fixed with this:

little pricy though.

Sorry guys, it's a 2004 Rubicon. The caster is no big deal. The main things are the clunking I hear when making a right turn, the steering wheel shake and the shifting.

I can feel the clunking in the pedals, and even the stick, but only when making a right turn. And I came to find that it's NOT only during a tight turn, so I don't think adjusting the steering stop will make a difference. Also, if it helps I can take pics with my digicam and post them on the web if you want to see anything.

The steering wheel shake seems to be worst at about 40 mph. Above and below 40 the shake lessens considerably. I noticed the OEM steering stabilizer on my '04 Rubi seems to be much flimsier than the one on my old '98 Sport. Quadratec claimed I wouldn't need to change the steering stabilizer, but maybe that would make a difference?

The shifting is fine if you pull the boot off. The boot just seems to be bunching up under the stick. Do they make some kind of a shifter extender or even and offset? If the shifter was offset an inch or so to the front then all would be cool. Thanks again guys. Much appreciation for your help.

Jay

L.W.(ßill) Hughes III wrote:

First I would be checking the wheel lug nuts to see if one tire got left loose....

Steering shake is unacceptable and can get dangerous fast in a Jeep.

I suspect the shake and clunk are closely related.

I think something has come loose.

I have seen folks heat the shifter to bend it and/or take out the inner boot to give room.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

JVC wrote:

Of course not! Why install an SYE and not remove the t-case kit?!? That's kinda the point -- put the drivetrain where it's supposed to be, install the SYE, and measure for the new driveshaft.

If you don't have vibes now, I wouldn't change it. Should've measured it without the lowering kit on...

That's what I did -- lift the boot. No, an SYE isn't "necessary". Just depends on what you want. I didn't want to grind out my tuffy console and wanted to get my skidplate tucked back up under me -- thus the SYE was necessary for me.

That and I couldn't put soda/water bottles in the front cupholder -- new shift pattern prevented that. Wasn't going to put up with that!!! ;-)