Bored over?

Why is that Bill? Because it's been bored to it's last possible bore and the engine is needing another?

I can't make out the number on the cylinder. Is that a 5?

Thanks,

Well, looks like I have to buy a whole set of rings for one piston and ultimately, one ring (oil ring).

Bill

And a whole set of rod and main inserts, I hope you do. Remember to file the rings for each cylinder, as you will be buying standard, tens. Ask the store's mechanist what that is, as I can't remember off hand, maybe .010? God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O mailto: snipped-for-privacy@aol.com

Bill, what does this mean, to file the rings and what is the reason for filing?

Thanks,

Bill

Bill-if you're planning on doing all this work yourself (more power to you!) do yourself a favor and mosey on down to the local bookstore. do through all the books they have on engine rebuilding-even if they are for other engines. you'll get some ideas and learn some of the lingo too. if you're going to be pulling out the crank, you might as well replace all the main bearings. you'll also want to hone the cylinder to break up the glazed walls. you'll need to file down the gap on the rings so that they won't expand and break when they heat up. when putting the rings on, remember to install the gaps on consecutive rings 180 degrees from each other. before u do any of this, ask a shop to check your injectors...

Excellent point on the injectors!!! I was just thinking about this about

10 minutes earlier.

Thanks for the book suggestion.

Bill

Excellent!!!, one of the local shops can test the injector in question at

20.00 a pop. I'll take the suspected injector in there tomorrow and see what they find.

Bill

=_NextPart_000_009C_01C3FBE9.734EC640 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable That's bunk. I can't count the number of engines I've re-rung and never = had to file a ring end. If you're buying the correct size (std rings = for std bore) you will not need to file anything. You should not be = putting .010 rings on a standard piston and cylinder if that's what = you're eluding to.=20 I think I wrote this earlier and someone else mentioned it in this = thread, if you've never done a major on an engine pick up a book on the = general procedures. Relying on the advise you're going to get from this = group to get you through is going to cost you a lot of time, money and = quality of finished product. If you just went ahead and filed ring ends = without knowing how much and why you'd end up with too large a ring end = gap and a great place for oil to bypass. =20 To your original question, from viewing the pictures, you will not be = able to see the oversize marking on the piston without cleaning it. It = is not a raised casting in the top like the arrow, it is a lightly = stamped marking into the top. Better to pull the piston and have it = measured if you can't find a "std" stamping. Before you pull any pistons, rent or borrow a ridge remover and cut = the ridge out of the top of the cylinder. The ridge can be abrupt = enough to catch a ring and break the land on the piston and you are at = high risk of damaging the piston driving it out over the ridge with all = the crud that's behind the rings stopping them from compressing as much = as they did when originally installed. Next, deglaze the cylinder. Check that general repair manual I = described for what a proper crosshatch pattern should look like. Now set one of your rings into the cylinder. Push it down the = cylinder using the piston (hold it by the con rod and place it upside = down in the cyl. The top of the piston will push the ring down the cyl = and keep it square to the deck). Now take a feeler gauge and check the = end gap in the ring. Check that against the specs. I've yet to see a = ring, other than racing rings that were intended to be hand fitted, need = filing.=20 Make sure the ring grooves in the pistons are properly cleaned out. = No easy job. There is a tool for doing this but it can be done with a = broken piece of old ring sharpened like a scraper at one end. Wear = gloves and wrap the ring piece in a rag. The ring groove must be = perfectly clean or the new ring will not be able to bottom properly and = bind up between cyl wall and piston ring groove bottom. Also look for = drilled holes or slots in the oil control ring groove and make sure = they're open. these are the drain or return holes. Don't gouge the = sides when cleaning the grooves. The sides of the grooves need to be = parallel and not worn. Again a good general overhaul manual will give = you an in illustration of what to look for in worn ring lands. Don't install the ring ends 180 degrees from each other. What will = happen then is that every second ring will have the ends line up. = Randomly stagger the ends so none of them line up. 60 or

75 degree = spread should work if there are 4 ring (2 solid compression and a 3 part = oil ring). When installing the rings on the piston use a proper tool for = spreading them and installing them. Easy to break the comp rings. Okay = to spiral the oil control rings in place but not the comp rings. Make = sure the oil rings are properly seated on the spacer. I've typed enough for tonight, but I think you get the picture. These = procedures are not specific to any engine. There's a whole bunch more. = You need to be familiar with them. Steve "L.W. (=DFill) Hughes III" wrote in message = news: snipped-for-privacy@cox.net... > If their ends come together on normal expansion they will break.=20 > God Bless America, =DFill O|||||||O > mailto: snipped-for-privacy@aol.com >=20 > William Oliveri wrote: > >=20 > >Bill, what does this mean, to file the rings and what is the reason =for > > filing? > >=20 > > Thanks, > >=20 > > Bill

to file a ring end. If you're buying the correct size (std rings for std bore) you will not need to file anything. You should not be putting .010 rings on a standard piston and cylinder if that's what you're eluding to.

Yet somehow I always wind up with something surprising me. The darndest one was the ricer engine I was ringing, tho. Pulled the pistons, went to just snap the old rings to take them off and damned if they didn't just BEND on me! I think I could have tied a knot in the compression rings without breaking them - darnedest thing I ever saw. And it hasn't been that long since I had to trim a set of rings to get the correct end gap - the stock size was basically touching (0 gap). I gave up on files, tho - a thin cutoff wheel (used as a grinder) in a Dremel is a lot quicker and cleaner.

You are taking on a dangerous job there Bill.

If you make an error, you will be using the engine for a boat anchor.

Trying to repair someone eles's screw up on an engine build is very difficult.

The overbore codes for your engine are stamped on the oil filter boss unless it has been bored out even more aftermarket.

Look close on the oil filter boss for a letter code stamped in.

If the letter B is stamped there, the cylinders are 0.010" oversized from the factory.

There are other codes for the crank mains and rod bearings.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

William Oliveri wrote: