carb rebuild xj 2.8L?

Mid-eighties carburetors are the most mechanically complex devices yet produced by the hand of man. That is why fuel injection was developed. Be afraid.

Earle

I have little choice against 'screwing with the carb' as it's leaking at this point.

The stalling problem existed before the replacement of the 2.8L with this 3.4L. I just got used to it.

Although, your comments about line corrosion are interesting. I'll take a stab at checking these. I'll replace the vacuum hoses just on general principle.

How much hassle is involved with the "EGR orifice"?

-Bill Kearney

And that helps me how?

The 2SE is a lot "less worse" than the E2SE.

Putting an FI system on this would be a waste of time and money. Unless, of course, there's a complete FI system available for less than the cost of a replacement 2SE carburetor.

-Bill Kearney

Hmmm, how about it draining gasoline once the engine is shut off? I haven't yet tracked down where but it's guaranteed to drip out about a bowl's worth of gas once the engine is turned off. It does usually take at least 10 minutes for it to start showing a drip underneath.

I will take a serious look at the emission systems.

Does anyone know of a 'carb expert' in the DC/Baltimore area? I'd be willing to pay someone. Provided someone else recommends them and because they /know/ they can fix this sort of thing.

-Bill Kearney

----- Original Message ----- From: "RichH" Newsgroups: rec.autos.makers.jeep+willys Sent: Monday, July 21, 2003 10:27 PM Subject: Re: carb rebuild xj 2.8L?

Does a carb rebuild kit include this? Or is it a different, additional kit? Is the factory kit well documented? Or is there a 3rd party kit that's better?

I'm not unwilling to take stab at rebuilding this beast (I've done quadrajets before). But I'm concerned the current carb is sufficiently out of whack as to have something wrong with it that a rebuild kit isn't going to address. Like some molded part of the housing being out of whack or something.

Thanks,

-Bill Kearney

Well....

I have read the thread.

A carb kit is really easy to put in and is really cheap.

It 'used' to work fine right?

Therefore all the settings were correct, so you take a pencil and paper and screw in all the adjustments that 'need' to be moved to clean them and count the turns. Write them down.

Anything that the kit says 'can' be adjusted, but doesn't need to move to clean, you leave alone.

If you are careful and lay all the parts out on a newspaper in order of taking them off, putting in a carb kit isn't hard.

If it turns out hard to set the mix up, take it in to a carb mechanic for the final tweak.

To check your emissions, trace the PCV line to the intake and there or on the PCV valve itself you will find another hose 'T' ed into it.

Follow this hose and it will go to the charcoal canister or gas tank and carb float bowl vent.

At idle, pinch this PVC line to the canister closed. If the idle changes, the canister is shot and the carb will not work right.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

wkearney99 wrote:

LOL!

You can handle a quadrajet, that little thing will be a breeze.

And yes any kit comes with a needle and seat and an accelerator pump.

The aftermarket kits seem quite fine.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

wkearney99 wrote:

You know Bill, I have only once since the late 60's ever seen a dead choke pull off...

Maybe my clients or friend have been lucky, but to me that is an unusual part to go bad.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

"L.W.(ßill) Hughes III" wrote:

I guess I have been lucky, because I test every one by sucking on the hose.

Mike

"L.W.(ßill) Hughes III" wrote:

Nope, the pinching the line did not affect the idle. This is the line that goes to the pair of vacuum canisters on the right (passenger) wheel house (just behind the battery). I tried removing the line and making /sure/ it was plugged and it did not affect the idle.

Is there a vacuum diagram for this online somewhere? Or, which manual does the 'least worst' job of correctly charting out what goes where. It all looks correct.

Pardon my ignorance here, emission control systems are not my forte.

Then the question becomes the best price for a rebuilt one. Carb Exchange is quoting $289 for one, is that a in the range of reasonable for a replacment remanufactured unit? I'll get a kit this weekend and give it a try (they'll take my failed rebuild as a core) so it'd only be the cost of the kit wasted.

-Bill Kearney

Ok, then too high a vacuum on the float bowl isn't an issue.

Go for the kit, you should be pleasantly surprised.

Also check that choke pull off like others have mentioned, I just suck on the hose to see if it holds vacuum, but your symptoms point to a bad float needle and seat and worn gaskets.

Turning and dying, is float usually, it either sticks open or closed, both stop the engine.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

I did see some messages (stfw, google) on there being problems with too low a vacuum level not being able to 'run' the necessary bits. So I'll be digging out my vacuum gauge tomorrow to measure what it's pulling. Any suggestions on what take-off point to use for measuring?

I'm hoping if I make a mess of it the remanufacturing place won't care. So if my rebuilding fails I'll only be out the cost of the kit and my time/aggravation.

Yeah, the odd thing it would only do this when making a left-turn at speeds above 15 mph or so. There had to be some weight-transition movement to trigger the stall. This was on the old 2.8L via mechanical fuel pump as well as on the replacement 3.4L with it's electric pump. So I'm not inclined to think it's fuel pressure related but I've never measured the pump's output.

How much of the linkage and such am I going to have to disrupt to do the rebuild? Can I hope to be able to maintain the various bits of alignment that exist or am I going to have to set it all up from scratch again?

Does anyone's carb book /really/ do a good job covering the 2SE? (I have a 2SE, not the E2SE, thankfully)

-Bill Kearney