Changing the name of my jeep from Blackie to Black Cloud (or error 54 diagnostic code)

Whoops... The site I got the code below was from a YJ site.

I now have found a MPI Kit site (d54 = Distributor sync pickup

Now, what does this mean? Distributor bad? Can it be fixed?

Thanks,

Bill

William Oliveri did pass the time by typing:

That would be this.

It can be replaced, just follow the distributor removal procecure back on the main page. You have to remove the pin holding the distributor gear in and pull the shaft to get to the stator.

But first.... clean the connector just in case that is the problem.

You just told us you left the cam sensor unplugged. Did you erase the trouble codes, before trying it again?

How do you erase the trouble codes?

Thanks,

Bill

William Oliveri did pass the time by typing:

Disconnect the battery for about 20-30 min and that will cause it to dump everything.

That also resets the tranny computer and other things. For the first few dozen miles you run after doing this drive "normally". i.e. don't mash the gas, the computer will be fine tuning the mix and other things.

PS. This is exactly what you have to do if you ever replace the header, injectors, or O2 sensor. Otherwise the computer can become confused.

Groan.

You really know I just want to come down there and slap you... ;-)

They had the distributor right.

The 'miss' is the same damn one that killed the last engine by gas wash is my guess. Check that spark plug again.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

William Oliveri wrote:

Well, I took the dist off and lifted up the plate and looked at the sensor and it was caked with black crap so I cleaned it all off and put it all back together again. Also, don't know how it got there but I stuck a straw into the wiring harness connector (3 pin) and found what looked to be oil. So I cleaned that up too.

Now it still won't start and there's no fault code indicating a problem.

That is I don't have 54 anymore I just have the following returns:

12 55

Any ideas?

Thanks,

Bill

I would guess that you have flooded the plugs.

Sometimes they need to be removed to dry out before it will run again.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

William Oliveri wrote:

William Oliveri did pass the time by typing:

The bushing in your distributor shaft is wearing and allowing oil to get up into the distributor, that's not good, eventually the distributor will start making a ticking noise and need to be replaced before it up and eats itself.

quick and relatively painless job. Also a good opportunity to replace thecap, rotor, wires and plugs.

Check to make sure all connectors are back and no pins got bent. Let the vehicle rest for a while, you may also be flooded.

To tell the car it's flooded, start with the pedal all the way down then release after cranking a few times. That tells the computer not to give fuel.

(battery disconnected within the last 50 starts) ..ignore it unless it occurs with lots of other codes in which case look for a loose battery connection. It can't be reset unless you have the DRB Scantool or do fifty starts. I'm not up to wearing out the starter just to clear one code. :)

(end of codes)

Usually, 20-30 seconds will erase trouble codes.

The computer is constantly "fine tuning" and updating the adaptive memory. The best thing to do is to drive it like you drive, and it will adapt to it.

The only time the computer gets confused is if it's getting false information, as it would from a bad sensor. Replacing the sensor is all that is needed, and the computer will automatically correct for it. The only thing you do when resetting the computer is change where the computer starts to adjust from, not where it will end up. It will always adjust. That's it's job.

Yeah, took the plugs out, let them set for a couple of hours while I did something else also allowing the cylinders to breath. Came back and cleaned the off with a wire brush. Then took another look at the distributor to make sure I put the rotor back on (was thinking about this when I was doing other things). I was hoping it was off which would explain why it wouldn't start but it was there in place.

I'm trying to think of something else I might have done in the process but everything looks correct.

hmmmmmmm.....

Bill

Correct, but it's easier and quicker for the computer to adjust from a fresh start than to un-learn/re-learn a new setup.

William Oliveri did pass the time by typing:

coil primary? CPS sensor connection back by the dipstick?

Just got the right sized wrench and socket today to remove the rail so the injectors will be tested and/or replaced this week.

Bill

I replaced the distributor today to remove any issues with that. Still won't start and still no codes other that 12 and 55

Going out to continuity test what I can now.

If there is a problem with the coil or other electrical parts would the computer pick it up?

Thanks,

Bill

Not really. If the computer is adding fuel at 10% due to a bad O2 sensor, and with the properly operating sensor only needs to add 7%, that's only a -3% shift. From 0% (Where you start when you reset the computer) it's a +7% shift, which will take more time.

Of course this happens very quickly, and the difference is moot. My only point was that the computer is constantly re-learning, and the computer will automatically do this with or without resetting, because that is what it's designed to do. It adapts to changing conditions.

Not saying don't do it, go ahead if you wish. Just saying it doesn't really help.

When you start talking about OBD II vehicles (which this one is not), there are many good reasons for NOT resetting the computer, but that would be another thread. :-)

William Oliveri did pass the time by typing:

Nope, the computer can't see into the ignition circuit.

Have you gone through and checked all the fuses and checked for spark?

A quick rundown from the 93ZJ. Power comes in from Fuse2 in the distribution center (behind the battery) and runs through the ASD (Automatic Shutdown Relay) in the same location. That feeds 12V to the coil over a 18 gauge Dark Green wire with a Black stripe. Ground is provided by the ECU over a 18 gauge Grey wire with White Stripe.

.longshot. It could be the CPS sensor, but that's hard to test without a scantool or o-scope. Several folks have gone through the same issue with mixed results. Sometimes it helps, sometimes it doesn't. And the part isn't terribly cheap. This is for the 42RE transmission. Know your tranny before getting one, they vary within the same year.

Ok, I figured it out. I didn't set the distributor on the COMPRESSION stroke. Duhhh!!!.

Back in business.

Now, on this week to check the injectors.

Thanks all,

Bill

William Oliveri did pass the time by typing:

That will do it for sure. :)

Still need to do that myself. Got a bit of a rough idle and they are the only things left that could be causing it.