Dana 35c Overhaul questions

The last supposed 'mechanic' that worked at a Jeep shop tightened down my yoke saying he knew what he was doing and he could use the old parts again.

$500.00 later at a real machine shop, my rear end was back running again. He cooked all the bearings out by not knowing what he was doing.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

snipped-for-privacy@ohmygosh.net wrote:

Anywhere near San Antonio? I want to re-gear but don't want to pay someone big $$ to do it for me. I'd rather learn to do it myself, but don't have nearly enough tools (and in buying them I'd spend more than paying someone to do it for me...). I've been known to pay for assistance in vast amounts of beer, food, and general entertainment (laughing at my expense as I fumble around trying to get something to work, of course)... ;-) So far I've done two lifts on my TJ, intake, exhaust, all fluids, rock rails, cb, etc. It's been a great learning experience. Had friends to help out when needed, but I've moved!

Eric

Bill, you're such a dumb f..... Do you ever read any of the links you post? Above the photo in your link

Everything you need for a complete ring and pinion installation is in this kit--Grade 8 ring gear bolts, cover gasket, bearings, seals, shims, marking compound, thread-locking compound, and silicone sealer

Did you catch the part about ring and pinion installation?

And, why the f.. would they mark the pinion with it's depth from the "0" or neutral point if it's all dependant on the bearings. Have you even ever opened a box with a new gear set in it? They don't ship the bearings with the gear set you dipshit.

But, don't believe me. Go here

read the entire installation manual and note the references to piniondepth or checking distances marked on the gear set. Well Bill, you've done it again. Let your own stupidity and "I'm always right" attitude back you into another corner.

>

Steve, you ignorant son of a bitch. I'm going by what the poster said. Remember? Fuck no! For those that with a very short memory problem, Troy wrote: "From: snipped-for-privacy@ohmygosh.net 10:40 AM Subject: Dana 35c Overhaul questions

The original symptoms were noisy rearend. At least half of the noise went away after I installed new wheel bearings and new axles. The noise that remained was on acceleration and deceleration between about 20 to 35 mph. No noise on turns or at highway speeds.

Okay, I've got everything out of the Dana 35c housing. The carrier and pinion are on my work bench. The pinion bearing cups are also on the bench. Nothing left in the pumpkin. I have a bearing replacement kit ready to start installing after the old bearings are removed from the pinion and carrier. I have some questions for the rearend experts.

1) The ring and pinion look fine to me, no cracks or broken teeth, no unusual wear pattern, no burnishing or signs of overheating, but how do you tell if the ring and pinion need replacing other than for these obvious clues?? 2) If I use the old ring and pinion with new bearings, what would keep me from re-installing the old crush sleeve, providing I carefully brought the pinion nut up to torque and checked and found the pinion preload was within specs?? In other words, why do I have to use the new crush sleeve??? I don't have a 300 to 400 pound torque wrench which the instructions say will be required to crush the new sleeve. 3) The existing ring bolts are 3/8" 24 tpi with a 13/16" head and are 9 point. The new replacement bolts are the same except they have only 7/16" head and are only 8 point. Why should I put these new inferior bolts on my ring if I don't remove the old bolts and the ring from the carrier???

Any help will be much appreciated.

Troy"

How besides the bear>

That's something like what the fool that cooked my CJ's rear end said....

In my case he was wrong.

I watched a machine shop do it 'properly' and shims and micrometers were involved.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Steve G wrote:

Why would I hesitate? Because of the amount of torque involved to crush the sleeve. I have only one crush sleeve, but obviously I should have ordered some extra ones. Also, my torque wrench only goes up to 250 ftlbs and I'm a bit worried about going into the 350 ftlb range without knowing where I am. All this worry is because I have never done this before. If I thought there was a harmless shortcut, I would take it. But all of you can rest easy, I will go ahead and install the new crush sleeve whichever way I go.

Also, I have all the micrometers, calipers, inlb torque wrench, etc. necessary for checking and making sure preloads and backlash are within specs. I even have the monster W-129B differential case spreader that I miraculously found a while back in a pawn shop for fifty bucks. But I do have tight budget constraints, and if I have to re-install the old R&P with new bearings, I will. I've requested quotes from various drivetrain shops for a new R&P. If I go the route of reusing the old R&P and the noise is still there, or worse than before, I will do it all over again with new R&P and then I will have had the experience to maybe do a better job. I presently have far more time than money, so it would be no big deal to do it all over again.

Anyway, all the replies to my query, even with the disagreements, have been most helpful. Thanks to all of you!

Troy

Steve G wrote:

My rear end was 'extremely' noisy with the blown pinion bearings.

It scared me when I drove away after the proper repair it was so quiet. I thought the noise was my mud tires.

I still have the original R+P in there.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

TroyM wrote:

What does the original post have to do with the discussion about shims, you stupid f*ck. I said that he could well replace the bearings and live with the noise from the tooth contact. You went on to say, with your head firmly planted in your ass, that I "You kind of blew over the fact that pinion depth is established with a shim that will change with new bearings:" You then went on to post a link to a pic that showed a pinion with a shim and a bearing, as if that confirmed that the shim needed to be replaced if the bearing was replaced.

I went onto explain that the shim thickness will not need to change with new brgs. Remember that f*****ad?