Embarrassing newbie questions about xfer case shifting

Hi all, I'm going to go check out a '78 CJ-7 with 304/3-speed today at noon. Supposedly "everything works" and the drivetrain is 100% stock. I think that means a spicer-20 xfer case (good thing from what I read), dana20 rear(weakest link on this setup from what I read), and dana30 front (not bad from what I've read). I've ridden in a few Jeeps but I've never actually driven one so I have the ultimate newbie question for you... I know how to drive a stick shift just fine, but... (here comes the embarrassing part...I've never actually driven a 4WD vehicle before so the xfer case shifting stuff is a myster to me...) on a 4WD vehicle there's that extra stick for the xfer case to choose between 2WD/4WD and high/low... On a Jeep, what is that shift pattern like? Hopefully it's marked on the stick... Like forward and to the left for 2WD, then straight back for 4WD(high), and back and to the right for 4WD(low)? (Just as an example) Something like that? Also, when using the xfer case shifter, I'd guess that I would depress the clutch like I do to shift transmission gears? In a normal offroad situation I think I'd approach the trail, get out and engage the manual hubs (keeping the xfer case set for 2WD) and then enter the trails and drive around like that and switch to 4WD using the xfer case when needed. I mean, it wouldn't hurt to drive around some with the hubs locked but the Jeep still in 2WD, would it? That would just make it so that the front axle would be spinning since it would be "locked" at the wheel hub as I moved but the front driveshaft would still be stationary because it was decoupled from the xfer case, right? I think I have that right, but wanted to be sure. The most important thing I need to know for right now though, is how to shift the xfer case since I'm gonna go test drive this Jeep today. Use the clutch when shifting xfer case? (probably) And the shift pattern? I have no idea what it is. Oh, and I'm also guessing that I wouldn't shift the xfer case at all unless I'm at a full stop, not moving at all? Thanks! (Hey, everybody had to learn this stuff at some point... Maybe a couple of years from now I'll google search on this post and have a good laugh at myself for having questions like these. :-)

-- Travis

formatting link
meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it.:wq!

Reply to
travis
Loading thread data ...

On Wed, 15 Oct 2003 06:45:54 -0400, travis shared the following:

No...wait... If the front axle shafts are spinning as I'm moving because they're locked at the hubs then that would also cause the front driveshaft to spin... but it (front driveshaft) would be decoupled at the xfer case so it wouldn't be engaging there. That closer to being correct? So running in 2WD at the xfer case with the front manual hubs locked would have the net effect of making more moving parts when the vehicle was in motion (front driveshaft and axleshafts and front differential) which would drop fuel economy a little and cause a little extra wear on the moving parts I guess, but nothing more sinister than that? I wouldn't run with the front hubs locked and in 2WD on the street. I'm just thinking that it would maybe make sense to do that while putting around at low speeds on the trails.

-- Travis

formatting link
meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it.:wq!

Reply to
travis

On Wed, 15 Oct 2003 06:45:54 -0400, travis shared the following:

Sorry, make that AMC-20 rear...still trying to learn...

-- Travis

formatting link
meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it.:wq!

Reply to
travis

well, Travis, i don't have an answer to all of your questions, but this is what i know. my jeep prefers that you are moving before shifting from 2 wheel to 4 wheel high - any speed below 55mph. now, going from 4 wheel high to 4 wheel low requires you to be moving less than 3mph, but still moving nonetheless! i also think that pushing in the clutch would be a good idea, you don't want a load on the drivetrain when shifting the xfer case. if you don't push in the clutch, have the throttle at a 'neutral' setting.

good luck with the test drive. i hope it turns out to be the one for you.

-- bob z. p.s.

"people with less brain power than you are doing more difficult things everyday"©

Reply to
bob zee

With a CJ, be stopped to shift from 2W to 4WH or 4WL. The Dana 20 ain't no "shift on the fly". The pattern is four positions, straight in line... all the way forward is 4WH, then coming back, neutral, 2WH, and then 4WL (I believe that's correct if my memory serves me). The shift pattern is typically on the knob. Depress the clutch to shift, and you may have to bump it a bit (let clutch out briefly in forward/reverse) to get in/out of gear. Lock the hubs in at the trail head and shift to 4WD when needed will work fine. Good Luck!

-- JimG

80' CJ-7, 258 CID 35" BFG MT's on 15x10 Centerlines 4.56 D30-D44 SOA D300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks Warn 8000i w/dual batteries LockRight F&R

Reply to
JimG

You must have the only Jeep tranny I have ever heard of that isn't shift on the fly' into 4 high.

The owners manual for my CJ7 says I can shift at any legal speed into 4 high, and I do it all the time.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

JimG wrote:

Reply to
Mike Romain

Hi Mike, Well OK, I guess I never tried it (nor owned an owners manual)... and we are talking about a Dana 20 not our 300's. But did I get the pattern correct? JimG

Reply to
JimG

Reply to
L.W.(ßill)

Reply to
attnews

Reply to
L.W.(ßill)

Reply to
attnews

On the transfer case?

I do have the Dana 300, but....

I mean my manual 'does' say to shift the transfer case a 'firm' hand is needed, so I hit it like an old Western Star I drove for a bit, man that thing was a pig to shift, and I am good at double clutching.

I also don't need to pass neutral when shifting. My neutral is between

2 high and 4 low.

Ok, if that's the case with the 20, I will keep it in mind in the future. I thought the 20 was a good transfer case...

Mike

"L.W.(ßill) Hughes III" wrote:

Reply to
Mike Romain

Hi Mike,

I did get the shift pattern wrong for a Dana 300 anyway (not sure about the

20). It's 4L all the forward, then coming back N, 2H, then 4H. On a 208 (in Cherokee and a truck, manual transmission) it's opposite... 2H, 4H, N, 4L. I get confused if not sitting in front of it... mine has twin sticks.

Turns out I did find the owners manual for my 80 CJ-7 and it says to shift the transfer case at 2-3 mph. I am sure the Dana 20 is the same.

JimG

Reply to
JimG

Hi Travis,

I did get the shift pattern wrong for a Dana 300 anyway (not sure about the

20). The 300 is 4L all the forward, then coming back N, 2H, then 4H. On a 208 (in Cherokee and a truck, manual transmission) it's opposite... 2H, 4H, N, 4L. I get confused if not sitting in front of it... mine has twin sticks.

JimG

Reply to
JimG

Shift pattern on my Dana300 is 4WL-N-2WH-4WH in order from all the way forward moving back. I'm pretty sure this is the standard for all

300's. I too have to occasionaly let the clutch out a bit to shift b/t diffrent modes as well.

Mike

Reply to
Mike

Only for 4 low is 2-3 mph needed.....

I shift my Dana 300 in and out of 4 high at 50 to 60+ mph all the time.

I just treat it like any other shift. I see a snow patch coming, I hit

4 high, get pavement back and go to 2 high. (I lock my hubs at the house if it is snowing or I expect blowing snow.)

I do the same in my 88 Cherokee.

Mike

JimG wrote:

Reply to
Mike Romain

MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.