Front U-joints

Got those on my ZJ. If they are the same ones, I just used a 12 point

13mm socket. Once those three bolts came out the axle slid out.

U-joints shouldn't have any play.

The three bolts that hold the unit wheel bearing in the knuckle are 13mm

12-point bolts, you'll need a 12-point socket.

Soak the bolts and all around the bearing/knuckle mating surface with penetrating oil like PB Blaster for a day or so, esp if you live in the rust belt.

Thanks for the help. Will slightly loose u-joints make noise when locked and unlocked both? I am changing them as soon as possible and hope this stops the rattle. As long as the front is not in 4-wheel it should not come apart I hope. Don

Those joints are spun at all times, only load is from reverse spinning the differential. But the joints could disassemble from jamming at full lock (as in parking etc) Get them fixed soon.

Although Matt menti>>U-joints shouldn't have any play.

Don't hit the mounting bolts too hard or you'll find how hard they are to get replacements for!

30s: The axles slide out.> God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0> mailto: snipped-for-privacy@aol.comhttp://www.billhughes.com/>

I would recommend getting some bolts from the hardware store if you are going to hammer on them. You may have to hit it hard enough to deform the bolt heads.

I have one sacrificial bolt I use and just move that one around to beat on. It also helps to cut the steering side to side to get room to swing the BFH.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail > >> Hi Don, 30s:> The axles slide out.>> God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0>> mailto: snipped-for-privacy@aol.comhttp://www.billhughes.com/>>

Yep, the axle spins whether you are in 4x4 or 4x2.

Been there, done that! I resorted to buying three bolts of the same pitch and diameter, but longer than the factory bolts, threaded them in and tapped on the bolt heads with a hammer just enough to get a gap big enough to insert a small prybar.

I guess that makes factory MB's/GPW's fake, and YJ's real.

Does anyone happen to have torque for the 36mm and the 13 mm's. I just ordered a 3/4 drive 36mm and have a 3/4 torque wrench for the wheel nuts off my VW buggies. Thanks for all advise Don

Hub Bearing Bolt (13mm): 75 lb-ft

Axle Nut: 175 lb-ft

Are you also changing out the front hub? If not, there is no reason to touch that 36 mm nut....

The hub will just come off with the spindle and the whole thing pulls out as one piece. You then can press out the u-joint.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail > Does anyone happen to have torque for the 36mm and the 13 mm's. I just

Thank You Mike all I plan on is the u-joints. You just saved me some time. I do not think the hub should be all that tight. It was just off a couple of months ago when the front lockers were repaired. The mechanic told me he had to remove the axels for the repair. I guess I will have the socket if needed in the future. I assumed from the info on Bill Hughes page it was necessary. Thanks again Don

The sacrificial bolt trick is one VERY useful trick,,, I've used it - it helps out ALOT!

A quick little WARNING!

Be very, very careful not to deform or damage in ANY way the ABS excitor ring that is on the axle near the U-Joint. It can be really difficult to find a replacement and even MORE difficult to install it.

This is experience talking here!

Good Luck, Bruce

I am lucky there~~~ No ABS on Rubicon's they want the wheels to lock in severe situations. Thanks for the warning . Don