Fuel Pump Delay When Cold

Vehicle: 1993 Grand Laredo 4.0, 4wd, Automatic, Air 170,000 miles

Engine codes: 12, 55 (using check engine light blinking)

Note: The engine is never started during the following tests except where indicated:

Normally when I switch the ignition on, my fuel pump will operate for about 1.5 seconds and stop. This charges the fuel rail with about 40 psi.

Recently, I noticed that the vehicle has become harder/longer to start, but only when cold.

I've noticed that the fuel pump does not run immediately when I switch on the ignition, but there is a delay up to 30-40 sec. when the engine is cold. I've also noticed that the "check engine" light is also delayed by the same amount as the initial 1.5 sec. fuel pump cycle when cold.

I've check the fuel rail pressure with a gauge, and once the fuel pump runs (after the delay), the pressure is good (40 psi).

I removed the plastic cover from the fuel pump relay and the fuel pump will run each and every time I manually activate the relay regardless of temperature. I've replaced this relay with no change in symptoms.

After the initial 20-30 sec. period, the fuel pump will operated for

1.5 sec. each time the ignition switch is cycled from off to on. However, if the engine is cold and I wait 10 - 15 sec. between each off-on cycle of the ignition switch, the fuel pump delay begins to surface again (2-4 sec delay). The longer I wait between off-on cycles of the switch, the greater the delay for the fuel pump.

Now if I start the engine and let it run for 120 sec., there is no fuel pump delay. However, if I allow the engine to remain off/cool for 120 sec, the delay begins to re-appear but with a shorter delay of only

6-10 sec. The longer the engine is allow to cool, the longer the delay.

I suspect that I have a sensor that is failing and that it is temperature sensitive, and this sensor is affecting the operation of the PCM with respect to the initial operation of the fuel pump.

My O2 sensor is a 4 wire device, which I believe indicates it has an internal heater. It's the original sensor. I haven't changed it due to the replacement cost, but I am beginning to suspect that it may be contributing to the fuel pump delay symptoms. I don't know if an O2 sensor can produces the above symptoms.

Your comments, advice, etc. are appreciated.

Reply to
TheLegMan
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Reply to
L.W.(Bill) Hughes III

I agree with Bill it is either a bad fuel pump or the fuel pump check valve. Try this test, when cold over night turn on vehicle for 20 seconds but do not start, do this 3 times on the 4th time start the vehicle if it starts immediately it is more than likely the check valve. Coasty

Reply to
Coasty

Thanks guys. The fuel pump was replaced about 50k miles back, and it runs great when I manually engage the fuel pump control relay. It doesn't matter if it's hot, cold, or warm, the pump always runs ok when I close the relay by hand. The fuel pressure is always in spec when the pump is running.

The problem still seems to be related to the signal from the computer which energizes the fuel pump relay.

When I run the fuel pump manually, it builds to the correct pressure (40 psi) and holds the pressure after the pump stops. It bleeds off very slowly when the pump isn't running.

Coasty wrote:

Reply to
iPlay1515

Reply to
Will Honea

Thanks.

I've tested the relevent circuits with a voltmeter and test light and found no delays or problems up to the point/circuit where the PCM (computer) energizes/controls the fuel pump relay. The voltage at this point follows the exact delays/symptoms as described in my original post. When the fuel pump relay is energized by the PCM, the pump always runs and produces the correct pressure. The delays are comming from the PCM.

The fuel pump delay problem is very repeatable and predictable and is not intermittent. When the engine is cold, there is a delay, when the engine is hot, there is no delay. When the engine is warm, the delay time varies depending on how warm the engine is.

Will H> Every thing you say sounds like a dragging or gummed up switch or

Reply to
iPlay1515

Those ISO relays are pretty cheap. Get a new one and see if that is it. Look under the relay to make sure the socket is not crudded up, if it is, a relay burnisher works. Don't use sandpaper, but you can make a burnisher out of one of those small diamond style fingernail files and a Dremel if you can't find the real one locally.

Then take your current relay and cut the top off. You can use it as a diagnostic for all sorts of stuff by sticking it in any relay socket and having someone close it for you manually. Helped me find a bad ignition switch the local parts folks swore never failed.

Will Honea proclaimed:

Reply to
Lon

Thanks Lon I replaced the relays early on and also checked for corrosion and crud. Everything checked ok.

Problem Solved

Replaced the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) $175.00 Advanced Auto $75.00 Core Limited Lifetime Warranty

The delay in the check engine light operating when the ignition switch was turned on was the most significant symptom. The check engine light comes on after the PCM completes an initial internal self test which is very short. If the check engine light is not on, either the lamp is bad or the PCM is not operational. Without the PCM, the fuel pump relay will not operated since it is directly controlled by the PCM.

The delay in the check engine light and the delay in the fuel pump running were the same.

L> Those ISO relays are pretty cheap. Get a new one and see if that is it.

Reply to
iPlay1515

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