HELP! Rear main seal on '87 Grand Wagoneer

Maybe the pan got warped? Too tight on the bolts and it can leak like a pig.

Did you use RTV at the seal corners?

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

s0eebuch wrote:

Guys,

Thanks for all the good advice. Here's an update: The following weekend, a buddy and I towed the Wag to his shop. He had an air compressor, full set of air tools, hydraulic lift, ect. ect. (Jeep owner's dream, right?). So, I redid the rear main seal. Turns out, the rear oil pan seal was split and the upper rear seal half was in pieces (I had sliced it up while inserting. I guess I didn't drop the crank far enough when I installed it the first time.) Anyways, I get everything back together correctly with the help of my SAE certified mechanic friend (a GREAT friend to have, by the way). Leak stopped, for a little while anyways.

Now, the leak has returned. I don't think it's the rear main seal or the oil pan gasket (mechanic friend was looking over my shoulder the whole time I reinstalled). I have already replaced the PCV valve, and I'm reasonably sure the valve cover gaskets aren't leaking.

Is there anywhere else I could have a leak? The oil is dripping off the bellhousing, directly on the hot exhaust that runs beneath. (

I vote with Bill! :-) Change the Valve Cover Gaskets and use RTV on clean grease-'free surfaces. Don't overtorque the bolts either, the RTV will seal it up. :-)

Did you clean up the engine so you can see any possible leaks?

I remember ripping an upper rear main seal half when installing one too! It happens, but it makes you more careful on the next ones. lol later, dave

82 FSJ 360 auto 88 FSJ-GW 360 auto (Alive Again) 88 XJ 4.0 auto

----- Original Message ----- From: "L.W. (ßill) Hughes III"

snip

I have the same deal on a 90 GW. I haven't tore into it yet. A mech told me that it could be changed without dropping the crank. Did you have room to move/remove the oil pan with the engine and all still in place? Did you drop the entire crank? Is this something that I could do in the driveway? I agree about the crossover pipe being in a bad place but at least it lets you know when you have a leak. How did you come out with the leak?

Good Luck, Harold

Everyone,

Sorry about not posting sooner, but thanks again for all the great advice. Here's the latest update: I had to let the Jeep sit for about 2 weeks while gone on business. While gone, I kept wondering why it only leaks while driving. If it idles, no leaks. So, what was the problem? I decided the next weekend to put in a new oil pan, replace the pan seals, recheck the torque on the rear main bearing, ect. Basically, I was going to recheck all my work, and I was NOT looking forward to doing all that again (Side: Does the exhaust on the driver's side need to be removed to access the rear oil pan bolts?) Anyways, I also decided to replace the dipstick tube, since it had rusted through. At no point did I make the connection with the busted dipstick tube and the leaking 'rear main seal'.

Well, I replaced the dipstick tube first ($10 part from the dealer!). Then, just for fun, I decided to take the beast for one more spin before I tore into the oil pan. I figured it'd be the last trip for a while. Well, guess what? The leak was gone!

The only thing I can figure is, my leak was coming from the busted dipstick tube, getting blown across the back of the engine, and running down around the bellhousing, looking like a leaking rear main. I'm just glad I didn't have to do that rear main again!

Anways, thanks for all the help. Next step is getting my 4-wheel engagement vaccumm motor to work. Crawling under the jeep to switch into 4x4 sux.

s0eebuch

s0eebuch did pass the time by typing:

Glad to hear that it was just a small problem.

The other leak spot is the valve cover. It does a very good impersonation of a leaking rear main seal.