Jeep grand 93 5.2L using up alot of oil, no leaking?

Only 115K mi, regular synthetic oil changes, using up about a court every 5K mi. With no leaks present, and quite sure it's not worn rings ... what else could cause oil consumtion if anything? It does set quite a bit because we usually use it only for light hauling trailers ect. thanks

Reply to
josh00
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I believe when my engine is down one quart of oil, it is time for an oil change. My old 88 with 315K km on it still can hold to that. Though it getting closer to 3000 miles now than 5K. ;-)

Synthetic acts like thin oil. Are you using the recommended grade of oil? To thin and it will pass on through.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail >
Reply to
Mike Romain

A quart in 5k miles does not seem like much. Maybe it is just more than the vehicle used new. What can be bad for an engine is short trips, where the engine is not warmed up completely. This will cause water to accumulate in the crankcase. Water is bad for internal engine components.

How can you be sure it is not worn rings? My Suburban did not show visible smoke, when burning a quart every 300 miles.

One thing to check is your PCV or CCV system. I am not sure which you have, but if you have excessive crankcase pressure, you could be getting oil forced out the exhaust, and oil leaks won't be far in the future.

Earle

Reply to
Earle Horton

josh00 did pass the time by typing:

Best way to find out if it is rings is to do a compression test.

You can also pull the plugs and see if any of them are fouled with oil/carbon.

You might have bad valve seals on the intake side and the engine is sucking oil in. But with the mileage, rings are not out of the question.

Reply to
DougW

Reply to
L.W.(Bill) Hughes III

If you use Fram filters, this is understandable.

Earle

Reply to
Earle Horton

Bill what year is this maintenance schedule from?

Reply to
billy ray

Reply to
L.W.(Bill) Hughes III

Note that he's only included "Schedule B". Although as the schedule says, "Most vehicles are operated under the conditions listed for Schedule 'B'", many are not.

Earle

Reply to
Earle Horton

Well...... my question was more about the recommended gear lube.

In the WJs it has changed in the past couple years from the 80w-90 they recommended for so long.

Reply to
billy ray

Reply to
L.W.(Bill) Hughes III

In article , billy ray wrote: #Well...... my question was more about the recommended gear lube. # #In the WJs it has changed in the past couple years from the 80w-90 they #recommended for so long.

It depends. If you have the quadra drive system, you need to have the special (as in "Special Education" special) lube.

75w-140 syn with the limited slip additive for the pumpkins and the only-available-from-Mopar NV249 transfercase lube. Don't use ATF of any kind type or sort, even though that is what DC shipped in my WJ.

My '99 WJ manual says you can use 80w-90 if you don't have the quadra drive.

/herb

Reply to
Herb Leong

In article , Herb Leong wrote: #In article , #billy ray wrote: ##Well...... my question was more about the recommended gear lube. ## ##In the WJs it has changed in the past couple years from the 80w-90 they ##recommended for so long. # #It depends. If you have the quadra drive system, you need to #have the special (as in "Special Education" special) lube. #75w-140 syn with the limited slip additive for the pumpkins #and the only-available-from-Mopar NV249 transfercase lube. Opps. I meant to say NV247.

#Don't use ATF of any kind type or sort, even though that is #what DC shipped in my WJ. # #My '99 WJ manual says you can use 80w-90 if you don't have #the quadra drive.

/herb

Reply to
Herb Leong

In 2001, per the FSM, they made a change to: FRONT AXLE

² The lubricant should have MIL-L-2105C and API GL 5 quality specifications. ² Lubricant is SAE 75W-140 SYNTHETIC gear lubricant.

REAR AXLE

² The lubricant should have MIL-L-2105C and API GL 5 quality specifications. ² Lubricant is a thermally stable SAE 80W-90 gear lubricant. ² Lubricant for axles intended for heavy-duty or trailer tow use is SAE 75W-140 SYNTHETIC gear lubricant.

It is kinda interesting that Synthetic 75W-140 is REQUIRED in ALL front axles but OPTIONAL in the rear for HD use or towing only.....

Reply to
billy ray

My 2004 WJ and TJ SM and says to use synethic 75W-140 front and rear with

4oz of limited slip additive with track-lock, vari-lock and 35C rear ends. You can get the magic juice at a ford dealer it is the same as chrystlers also Auto zone sells it along with Vavoline ATF+4 tranny fluid, which is used in the auto trannys, transfer case and power stearing units too. Coasty
Reply to
Coasty

Short runs only if they are continuous and constant for long periods. The old adage of the 3k oil change regardless of how you drive is old school.

Modern engines 10 years and newer do not generally need their oil changed every 3k even motorcycles. I change all my vehicles except for my wife's Shadow (7 mi to work one-way) all are at 6k. the Harley gets a 5k change. I have a 130k on the Ram and it only uses a 1/2 between a 6k change.

Motor Week and Pat Goss had a great article on oil, like most things it is not your Dads or Grand Pa's way any more times, technology and engines change on their needs. The sky is falling on the 3k oil change is old and tired those who continue on are just wasting time, money and our resources but if that is what they want to do it is their choice.

Many high end autos Lexus, Mercedes, BMW etc do not even have dipsticks they have sensors to let you know when the oil needs changing and it is 10-15k and their engines last well over 200k.

New school, use synthetic oil as per MFGR, change as per MFGR, save money, time, the environment and resources.

Coasty

Reply to
Coasty

Bill is right about short trips, but modern fuel injected engines, with their higher operating temperature, may change the definition of "short trip". I have to go fifty miles to get groceries, and I walk places in town, so I just don't worry about it.

Earle

Reply to
Earle Horton

Reply to
L.W.(Bill) Hughes III

"Moisture is the worst culprit because it forms acids and sludge." I have been saying this for years, since 1978 in fact, when Bud at Clarke Motors in Winchester, VA told me that "short trips" was the cause of the sludge buildup I was seeing in a Chevy V8 used in a farm truck. That truck had enough sludge built up, to pop one of the rockers off of its push rod.

Modern engines, running at the proper operating temperature and with a properly functioning PCV or CCV system, boil off crankcase moisture and therefore reduce acid and sludge, relative to older designs. Those short trips are a "gotcha" though, because it never gets hot enough to boil the water off.

Earle

Reply to
Earle Horton

Reply to
philthy

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