JEEP TRAILER

Hi Everyone! Since modifying my Jeep it doesn't flat tow so well now so I'm in the market for a trailer. I have two trailers with similar specs listed here. My Jeep will make it between 82" but I may need to go 84". What about the single axle brake and axel ratings. I want to be safe but keeps costs down. My Jeep has 35" tires - winch and is heaver than stock now.

16' Flatbed Trailer

Thanks,

Andy

Hi everyone. I'm in need of a trailer to tow my Jeep. My Jeep is modified - 35" tires and winch, etc. I may need an 84" width but could get between 82. What about axle brakes and weight?

16' Flatbed Trailer

Thanks,

Andy

Umm we all figured it out the first two times... ;-)

Mike

Andy wrote:

Make sure you get the crush washer in there right.... ;-)

Mike, is one axle brake system enough or should I opt for both? I assume

Andy

The 2x3500#-axle trailer should be fine as long as the trailer is actually rated for 7000# gross. I found out the hard way that just because a given trailer has 3500# axles doesn't mean the rest of the trailer is rated for the full 7,000#. Check the manufacturer's sticker for the true gross weight rating.

I'm guessing your Jeep probably weighs in the neighborhood of 4500 pounds, and a 7,000# trailer shouldn't weigh more than 1600-2000#, so you should be OK.

Width-wise, it's your preference if you want to go 82 or 84" wide deck. A wider deck will translate to wider axles, which translates to added stability.

I'd recommend getting brakes on both axles. Not only would you have additional stopping power, it will add a redundancy in case one axle's brakes fail.

I'll respond to THIS post LOL!

Either one will work fine. You Jeep will come in a bit over 4000 pounds so 7000 pounds gross weight should be fine. I prefer a smaller, narrower trailer, you might want to have some ramps over the fenders to get it loaded.

Of course, if you have a big enough tow rig, the bigger trailer is nicer. Any chance you can get > After modifying my Jeep it doesn't flat tow so well so I'm figuring on

What is the tow vehicle?

One brake axle is pretty normal, two is a lot more parts and crap to adjust and usually means you are maxed out for the tow vehicle.

Mike

Andy wrote:

Ah, now I realize that this post went multiple times. My reader doesn't show that, I though the first two failed.

Yes, I may get brakes on both axles if I can. It will be towed behind the motor home so 82 or 84 inches wide will work. The first trailer listed was quoted to me for $1310 which I though was great. No sides - just a flat bed.

Andy

I once built a trailer for my 1938 solid cast iron John Deer model AR tractor. As I recall if was around 4000 pounds. I used 2 mobile home axels with the width cut down to meet the 96" width requirement. Only the front axel had brakes and when manually operated they would drag my f-150 to a stop in unbelievablely short time.

JoBo

It's an old 85 motor home (C) with a strong chev 350 and 411's. The more I think of this the more I think I need to get a newer MH with the Ford 10 cyl. Triton engine. But it will be a Motor Home pulling the trailer/Jeep. No more flat towing.

Thanks,

Andy,

Ok, then a one brake axle should be fine. It isn't likely the trailer and Jeep will overpower the motor home.

Mike

Andy wrote:

Price is about what I was seeing when I looked at trailers last year.

Someone mentioned checking the mfg gross weight to make sure that 2x

Some options you might want to look at:

-brakes on both axles, should add $150 to $200 or so

-beaver tail (dropped rear) makes loading much easier. Your Jeep won't need it but any automobile will like it.

-winch on the front (manual is fine, just make sure it is has double reduction gears) You should be able to load a disabled Jeep after it has been towed to the trail head.

-You need to add some big 'D' rings to chain the Jeep down

-Get some transport quality chain, appropriate hooks to fasten it down.

-Make sure you can safely load the Jeep in the dark, in a rainstorm, at midnight, when your are tired, etc. No slipery ramps, no ultra precise placement, etc .

Cheers.

Andy wrote:

Great advice.

FWIW, I recently purchased 10k lb. rated Top Hat 16' "beaver tail" to trailer my YJ. I really didn't need the extra capacity, however it was the best value I found in this area. We have a number of local trailer sales / mfr outfits that were cheaper, but and some of the stuff they sell looked like it would disintegrate on the first bump in the road.

To date my only concern is the ramps are rather narrow, with deep channels and I fear they'll cut the sidewalls. They also need to be placed rather precisely, he's correct, look for one that's not that fussy. Also, I came up with a tie-down system using 2" ratchet straps and chain hooks. I replaced the short fabric / hook ends and replaced them with about 18" of chain with a hook on the end. The hook fits into the slots in the frame used for transporting on car carriers. Right now I'm lashing it down to the stake pockets and rails on the dside of the trailer. I'm told a better way is to bolt some tie-down d-rings into the floor, which I'll look into in the future.

Good advise Roy, thanks. IYHO where is the best spot on the Jeep for tie downs. I have D rings front and back on the bumpers. Or should I go to or over the frame?

Andy

Key thing on tie downs is STURDY. You want to be able to hit something fairly hard with the tow vehicle and not have the Jeep come cruising by you. If you use the D rings with a snatch strap, I suspect that should qualify. (If not, you are asking for the D ring to get projected like a missle) You would like to have the tie down chains going to D rings on the trailer at around 30 to 45 degrees from the horizontal. Since Jeep bumpers are about 12' apart, that might be a bit tight on a 16' trailer. I'd probably go for some convienient frame holes a couple feet from the bumpers. If you can't spead them out to the side, you will have to cross tie it (right side of Jeep to left side of trailer).

IMHO I still prefer to fasten the wheels down and let the Jeep suspension flex but no one else seems to see it that way. When you hook to the frame you have to crank it down tight enough to take all the wiggle out of the suspension, don't let it loosen, tighten, jerk etc.

For tie downs, check out

Andy wrote:

Strap the axles not above the suspension. Look at flat bed tow trucks, where do they tie too?

--James

Look at car carriers, what do THEY tie to?

IIRC, some provinces (Quebec?) require brakes on all trailer axles for trailers over 2k lbs.

Paul