Leaking output seal...again?

Hello, Getting a leak from rear output shaft seal from transfer case. Dealer repaired about 1.5 years ago for about 109.00 (rear seal). Is it normal for this to leak again so fast? Is it easy to do myself, or are there special tools. Have OEM manual but wanted input for experienced folks who have changed it or found a way to make it last longer. Should I replace anything else while there? I did change the transfer fluid about a year ago and filled to hole. Looks like I better check level again. Although it sure looks like a rear seal, it seems to leak more when parked on a slope with the front low and rear high. Still sound like a rear?

Thanks!

95 Cherokee Country 6 auto
Reply to
TF
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When a u-joint goes bad it 'usually' vibrates a lot before folks get it fixed. This vibration will wear down the output and/or the pinion bushings/bearings until there is enough play to start the seals leaking.

Just replacing the seal is a temporary fix that normally won't last long at all. You did good getting over a year out of it.... Your $tealer suckered you if they didn't change the bushing too... They 'like' the repeat business.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail >
Reply to
Mike Romain

These seals are notorious for seepage. However, very easy to replace. Simply remove the driveshaft, pop the seal out with a seal puller ($6.99 Sears or Pep Boys)

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and tap in the new seal with a small hammer (use a piece of wood across the face of the seal to seat it even all around), re-install drive shaft. I recommend using fine emery cloth to remove corrossion on the short output shaft where it contacts the transfer case output seal and apply a "light" coat of silicone sealant around the outside of the seal where it contacts the t-case. Sometimes this is where the seal will seep. Difficulty level scale from 1-5, this is a minus 1@ 45 minutes. Scott 91YJ

Reply to
reconair

Thanks for the input.. Good news / bad..Looks like it is not the output shaft! But all under oil filter and pans area....mmmm already changed Oil pressure sender not there...Off to the powerwasher, nice no leaks!!! Have to wait a while and see where the darn thing is..Thanks again, will let you know..It is oil not tranny fluid...transfer case up to level.

PS- How does everyone add to or when changing transfer case the fluid? I made a mess due to not being able to tilt the bottle up..managed with a trough made from the head of an empty bottle.

Regards Tom

Reply to
TF

Autozone and Shucks sell little pumps that attach to 1 qt bottles. Put the pump in the bottle, output hose in the t-case, pump away. Usually takes about 3 in the NP231, IIRC.

Carl

Reply to
Carl

I found an adapter that screws onto a one quart oil bottle, with an on/off valve built into it and a flexible plastic hose on the other end. I think I got it at Schuck's, but it was a long time ago. The hose fits into an automatic transmission dipstick/fill tube too. If it's not too cold out, it works for gear lube too.

Earle

Reply to
Earle Horton

I use a chunk of gas line stuck onto the bottle's spout and warm up the oil first. The quart bottles up here come with a small spout.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail >
Reply to
Mike Romain

No the quart bottles up here come as a liter ;)

Reply to
Greg

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