Lift nightmare part II

You need to see what way the new springs set the pinion. It might need to tip down. It will need to tip down if the lift used longer shackles.

You are looking for the pinion to be parallel with the t-case output. So if the T-case output is flat or | , then you want |------| . If the t-case is tilted down /, then you want /------/ . If you use a double cardan driveshaft, you want to point the rear pinion right at the t-case.

I have seen kits for lowering XJ skid plates at one of the online 4x4 places. Here is one:

I would be double checking the nuts and bolts first though. Something could just have worked loose.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail >

The pinion is looks to be at the stock angle of pretty much nill. The T-case is the same. I'll check all the bolts and everything.

Thanks Mike.

Carl

Checked all my fasteners... everything was tight as can be. The vibe is only really noticeable between 25 and 35mph, after that it smoothes out. I have stock shackles, the rear lift is just 3.5" lift springs.

Any input?

Carl

You are going to have to change some angles then. How far off are the two ends from being parallel? Folks use an angle finder or a string plumb bob and protractor to compare them or a small level and protractor.

The vib is actually the u-joint jamming and popping loose from the jam. It will eat them fast and damage the bearings and seals at the t-case and pinion.

My CJ7 is at the edge and buzzes when run empty. If I put a load on, it runs smooth.

Mike

Carl wrote:

I home-brewed a 1" T-case drop today. It helped a little, but the noise is worse now on the freeway, nearly gone at low speeds.

What gives?

Carl

You need to make the two ends parallel, as Mike says. You need to use some kind of instrument, to measure where they are both pointing, and then bring them in line with each other. If you don't know what is going on, then tilting the pinion up or the transfer case down, by guess work, is not going to solve the problem.

Earle