lock core seize

My 88 wrangler has 3 lock core's froze. One will lock the door but, won't unlock. They lock from the door panel fine. Should I use a lock smith or does anyone know of an online store that sell replacement sets for a reasonable price.

thanks

Try Trailquest:

They carry lock cylinders at reasonable prices. If you want to keep the same ignition key and have it fit all the new locks, take the key and your new locksets to a locksmith before installing.

Try turning the key to the full unlock position, then while holding the key in that position, give the door a sharp rap with your fist just above the lock and to the right (DS) (left on the PS). This will jar the locking mechanism to the unlock position. If, as you say, you can unlock from the inside, then your lock is not frozen.

What happens is when the locks get really cold, the mechanism and l>

How old is the key? A worn key will cause all sorts of problems.

Would you please define 'froze' to me.

Do you mean they just aren't working correctly?

Or that they are physically frozen due to low temperatures?

Or that they work fine wen warm and mess up when cold.

I have some ideas for all of the above.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail >

Ok, sorry I didn't give a more detailed description. I removed the door panel and degreased all the moving parts, so the locking mechanism from the inside work great. The problem is solely with the core itself, the key just won't turn. The passenger side and the tailgate are completly "locked" up in all weather conditions and the driver side will lock but not unlock.

Thanks for you help,

adam

Hmm, depending on the model year, sometimes you can buy sets of lock cores pretty cheap from Autozone, Checker's, Carquest and those types of aftermarket parts houses. Then you just take the door apart, push like crazy on some rusted-up fingernail-busting clips, and replace them, just like that. If your car is too old or the model is too obscure, you have to go to the dealer and pay more. Maybe check with a local locksmith first. Either way, I recommend just replacing all the locks at this time.

Sometimes you can spray stuff in there, like penetrating oil, stick the key in, and gently work it loose. I don't recommend this, but if you have more time then money...

Earle

A few things can go wrong with a core. Some are fixable but it depends in great part on how the core is constructed. Some just can't be repaired and must be replaced. If you do work on the core, do it on the ground. Why on the ground? Because when the springs and fiddly bits fall out they don't go very far. ;) But don't go there yet....

Judging from what you say I suspect you either have a very old key or had one cut from an old key.

Cores that are new (or infrequently used) will be more likely to reject an older key or a new key cut from that old key. It's always best to keep a master key and only make dupes from that. If you don't have a good key to make copies from, Jeep can take your VIN and look up the key then cut a new one for you.

You can spray out the core with some TB cleaner. Cores should never be lubed with oil or WD-40, as it attracts and holds dust. Graphite powder is the best stuff to use.

To add to Doug's comments: A good locksmith can take an old key, measure it, and recut a new one to factory specs. Costs a bit more than just cutting a key but not much. My local charges $10 to $15 for various rekeying jobs.

I'd just pull out the old core (take off > adam wrote:

Thanks for the clarification.

I would first inspect the key for wear as mentioned. If you go to DC to get a key cut, take lots of ID as well as the ownership. Unless they know you they get picky about it.

Then I would go at it with penetrating oil and/or WD40. Penetrating oil will do in an hour what WD40 takes 2 days to do. I would soak them like crazy, then let them sit then soak them again and try working a 'spare' key in and out and in and out to free up the pins or slides. Having the door lay flat on the ground helps to get the oil everywhere needed around the cylinder and top of the pins.

Once I finish doing that, I use carb or throttle body cleaner to get the last of the crap out. They are best left dry, graphite powder can keep them lubricated.

They 'can' be taken apart to free them up, but be careful as others have mentioned. Opening the wrong type the wrong way puts a whole new meaning on 'little parts flew everywhere'. LOL!

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail >

The best part is when you have all the springs and pins and start to wonder exactly how the little buggers go back in. :)

It's (for most cores)

1) key in lock core 2) cut pins into lock so they all sit flat 3) long pins into lock core 4) springs into lock core 5) backplate (being careful not to bend the springs)

Some locks have an extra pin at the back. This is a core-removal pin. Normal keys won't touch this pin but without it the core will pop out in your hand.

Thanks to All...This is a great forum!

Best,

Adam

have all the springs and pins and start

Speaking of little parts flying out... Anyone know what the correct order and orientation is for the horn plunger in a YJ? There are three parts, metal plunger (little button end and flat end), plastic bushing, and spring. I've tried every which way and can't get the right order or orientation to keep the horn from staying on.