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I have really started to get interested in this beast of a vehicle and the numberous vacuum lines etc and with this I'm starting to notice a lot of potential problems.

1.) My vehicle stinks like gas when in the garage and I know there are no leaks so I can assume that the evap canister is plugged? Or is it possible it is not purging and is just sitting there full of gas? If it isn't purging could it be a faulty CTO valve?

2.) Looking at a diagram of vac / vapour line routing for a YJ I see that the PCV valve should be tee'd over to the evap cannister. On my routing I can follow the PCV vent line (located at front end of valve cover) directly to the carb (No tee to evap cannister)

3.) I also have a broken nipple on the TVS valve so I imagine this is one of the reasons why the EGR valve is not moving. Could I bypass the TVS valve and have the EGR function all the time? I went to 3 places 2 of them didn't know what the TVS valve was and Canuck Tire said the part was discontinued.

Thanks

Reply to
Jeepster
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Dang!... sounds like "Mike" questions to me... personally I would rip most of that crap out... but then I don't have to pass a smog test.

-- JimG

80' CJ-7 258 CID 35" BFG MT on 15x10 Centerlines D44 Rear, Dana 30 Front. SOA 4.56 Gears, LockRight F&R Dana 300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks Warn X8000i w/ dual batteries
Reply to
JimG

Either do I :)

I did some digging around by the canister and found the P.O had plugged the line from the cannister back to were it tee'd off with the PCV vent line back to the carb. I had enough vac line and fittings to set this right so I'm hoping that is one of my problems fixed.

I never had a garage in my previous town and when I moved here I have this wonderful heated garage, before I fixed what was broken and never had the ambition to do much else when it meant dragging the tools out and working in the elements. In the last 1-1/2 years I have worked

1400 hours overtime and now that the new plant is up (Shell Scotford upgrader) and running I have a lot more time on my hands...... so get use to my stupid questions I have a new hobby now.

My hobby use to be American Satellite hacking but I gave that up when it became illegal in Canada. :)

Reply to
Jeepster

You mean you gave it up when the hu bins became blacklisted?

JimG

Reply to
JimG

Reply to
Jeepster

What a mess that ng is! I have prolly seen you there... I gave up when the activation no longer worked with my sub bin. Tried a few 3m's, but they don't last long. So... anyway , what model is your Jeep?

JimG

Reply to
JimG

Reply to
Jeepster

hey Jim, When my needle and seat went bad the carb over flowed into the manifold. it stunk of gas big time.

Reply to
Paul Brogren

Reply to
Jeepster

Semper Fi?

Reply to
Matt Osborn

Being in Canada myself, have to ask, what make top is that and were did you get it, very nice fit, would look good on my CJ

Reply to
Greg

Normally when I see a disconnected canister, that means the purge valve went bad.

I noticed you mention you have it hooked up now. I would recommend you test it.

If blown, the canister purge valve will effectively shut down the PCV system and cause lots of oil to spit into the air filter. It will also make the idle rough and erratic.

To test it have the engine running at idle and pinch the line from the canister to the PCV line closed. If the idle changes, the canister is dead.

The canister is only supposed to be purging when the engine is hot and at speed. The purge signal is a ported vacuum source routed through the CTO valve.

The canister also has an air filter on the bottom. CT sells them for about two bucks. Getting the first one out is a bear, it will need to be dug out with a screwdriver or hammer and chisel like mine. The new one just tucks back in.

You really don't want the EGR to open until the engine is 'really' warmed up. That TVS holds the EGR closed until the air filter has warmed up enough.

Maybe ask CT about one from a 91 YJ? Or one from a 86 CJ7? These both have the 4.2 engine.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Jeepster wrote:

Reply to
Mike Romain

Reply to
Jeepster

Yup it sure was the idle had picked up 100 or so RPM and it had that little bit of a stumble showing up when idling.

I will just go and get a whole new canister ..... :)

I took it off today and it is packed up solid I'm waiting for a new one to come in and if I have to I will visit the local Pick Your Part and grab a TVS.

Now that I have had a chance to drive it since doing the Nutter and adjusting the idle screws I do notice a slight stumble went I start out from a stop...... What could be causing this?

Thanks as always.

Reply to
Jeepster

Where'd you get the half top? I've only seen the best top halftop for TJ's.

Reply to
Simon Juncal

Best Top are way too expensive for my liking. I bought it from

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which happens to be located here in Edmonton where I live the top was about $500 Canadian, I also bought a sound bar and hardtop winter liner from him. The liner makes a big difference year round as it keeps it warm in the winter and in the spring and fall the noise is dampened inside the cab.

The half t>Jeepster wrote:

Reply to
Jeepster

Tried to email you but it says your box is full.

Reply to
JimG

Reply to
Jeepster

Canadian tire sells carb kits for them for about $20.00. The kit comes with a new needle and seat for the float and a new accelerator pump.

A kit can do them wonders. Things like the pump do wear out.

Mike

Jeepster wrote:

Reply to
Mike Romain

Mike this is a new carb but I guess that doesn't mean it was set up correct from the factory, I did have the idle very low ( I was marvelling at how well it idles with the computer out of the loop) and since that time I have bumped it up to about 800 rpm from about 500 or

600 rpm. That seems to have solved the minor stutter when starting out from a stop. Thanks

Reply to
Jeepster

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