motor mounts are in.

Well, not in, in but in as in in the garage in.

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Not tiny. And now that I can see a "good" mount It's obvious what I have in there sucketh much.

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The passenger side looks like it should take about an hour with photos and beer. Drivers side looks like it wants to make me pay out the wazoo. Blocked from below by the diff and burried under the steering column.

Reply to
DougW
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Reply to
L.W.(ßill) Hughes III

L.W. ("ßill") Hughes III did pass the time by typing:

Yep.. all bolts finger tight till the mounts are under load and then torque em down. Especially the isolator bolt.

I like that big ass rubber heat shield on the drivers side mount. They must have figured out the exhaust is what bakes it.

Reply to
DougW

DougW did pass the time by typing:

Update:

Passenger side mount is in. Took me all of 20min including poopbreak. Hardest thing was getting that center bolt to break free. Little PB blaster and _poof_ off it came. (/me hugs can of PB Blaster)

Second on the difficulty was fishing the "little gem" out from behind the AC, spark, and other harness goodness while not tagging the hot lead from the alternator.

yes, yes I know.. disconnect the battery. But this is more funner. :)

The mount was as shot as the driver side. Some tiny differences in the hole locations (probably to make easier assembly) but other than that identical to the OEM replacement.

Pics:

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boy was that mount cracked! Eventually I'll have a writeup but for now it's off to the driver side mount.

Right after this beer.

Reply to
DougW

Update to the update:

Motormounts for the I6 1993 ZJ

Tools: 18mm deep well 15mm deep well or standard 15mm and short extension several long extensions (about 16" total length) Torque wrench (40lb body, 48lb mount, 33lb crimpnut) Floor Jack (2 ton works well) piece of 3/4" plywood about the size of the oil pan breaker bar crescent wrench or 15mm box end beer

Passenger side mount:

1) support the engine from the oil pan using a piece of plywood to spread the load. Tighten the jack against the pan.

2) Loosen the body bolts and the center bolt

3) remove the nut from the center bolt and jack the engine up till the bolt slides free. (don't jack too far or it won't come out either)

4) remove the remaining four body bolts and the old engine mount

5) insert new engine mount and torque the body bolts to 40 ft.lbs

6) Put the center bolt back in and put the nut on it but don't torque it down yet.

--time to switch to the driver side mount

Driver side mount:

With engine supported (see 1)

7) Remove the air cleaner intake and box

8) Remove the heat shield protecting the steering column

9) Mark the steering column and steering box at the pinch clamp and remove the pinch clamp bolt (all the way out)

10) Remove the "anti collapse" plastic clip and slide the steering column up and move to the side.

11) Loosen the body bolts and center bolt

12) remove the center bolt nut and jack the engine up till the bolt will slide out.

13) using the long extensions (you will get it) remove the top body bolts. The bottom body bolts are somewhat hidden and take a bit of reaching but can be done from the top by reaching under the mount.

14) Jack the engine up a bit more till you can rotate the mount down and out. Then slide the new mount in and loosely fit the body bolts to hold the mount in place.

15) lower the engine a bit (or the holes won't line up) and slide the main bolt in.

16) Torque the body bolts to 40 ft.lbs

17) Slowly let the engine fully down

18) Torque both center nuts/bolts to 48 ft.lbs

19) reinstall steering column and clip, put locktite on the bolt and torque to 33 ft.lbs.

20) Reinstall heat shield and air box

21) drink beer (you better be 21 too, I ID) ;)

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Reply to
DougW

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