I am pretty green when it comes to rear ends so any advise is needed. My rear differential is leaking oil from the yoke. Is there any special needs I should be aware of before I begin? I own a1996 jeep GC Larado.
Pretty straightforward
There are special tools for this, although these can be fabricated at home, or substituted with commonly available tools. An impact wrench on the pinion nut, or a hammer on the yoke, can damage the bearings or chip the ring and pinion. I think that a "Five Star" Dodge dealer service department did this to me once, but they covered the part on warranty anyway. That is why you would use a pinion yoke holder when loosening the nut, and a yoke puller when removing the yoke. Overtightening can deform the crush sleeve and destroy the pinion bearings.
This is in principle a simple job, but there are lots of ways to screw up.
Earle
When you referr to the crush sleeve are you talking about the seal? And do I need to remove the cover or can this all be done from the front of the differential under the Jeep? Can you tell me how I will know when I have thightened the nut enough. And also will it be hard to pull the the yoke without a yoke puller?
I will tackle rebuilding engines, but I leave diffs to the pro's.
I have even had one so called 'jeep' shop destroy my rear end's bearings by putting on the yoke incorrectly. I had to go and spend big bucks at a machine shop to get it fixed right and needed all new bearings by then.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail >Mike,
That sounds exactly like what happened to me, with a 1997 Dodge Ram Van. If you take off the yoke with a hammer, you can destroy the bearings or the ring and pinion. If you put the nut on too loose or too tight, the same.
Earle
From front to rear, this is from memory, you have the pinion nut, yoke, seal, small bearing, crush sleeve, big bearing, and pinion gear. The crush sleeve establishes the spacing that determines the bearing preload. If you ruin it, you probably can't get it out from the front.
The yoke may come off in your hand without a yoke puller. Then again, maybe not. A two-jaw puller may work for this application. You may be able to fabricate a plate, that will facilitate use of a steering wheel puller.
You really need a manual, that describes this procedure, and the torque values to use. Haynes may be useful, same for Chilton's. You really want a Jeep Full Service Manual for your exact model and year.
How much do your local shops want for this job?
Earle
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