new clutch problem

..just finished installing a new clutch on my 85 cj7 /amc 150

4popper. Now the clutch won't disengage...I bled the hydraulic clutch system...I'm sure I put the disc on properly...the only way i could get it to work was to use a 6 inch socket extender in place of the slave cylinder push rod. It's working but what went wrong? Where did I lose the space?? Why is the clutch slave push rod now too short?? Any ideas?
Reply to
alexmacpherson
Loading thread data ...

The most obvious is wrong parts. Do you notice any difference between the old and new parts? Your Jeep is ten years older than mine, but a 6 inch socket extender seems kind of long. If the ends aren't exactly right too, your new "push rod" is going to wear funny and no doubt fall off with time. Also, is the clutch actuating arm seated properly on the pivot? I believe that it sits on a pivot inside the bell housing on your model, and that if it has popped off of there that might account for the missing space.

Earle

Reply to
Earle Horton

We believe you're missing the fork's pivot ball, number twenty:

formatting link
Seems like a part you could pop in fromthe outside, via a mirror and prayers. God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0mailto: snipped-for-privacy@aol.com
formatting link

Reply to
L.W. (Bill) Hughes III

twenty:

formatting link
like a part you could pop in from> the outside, via a mirror and prayers.> God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0> mailto: snipped-for-privacy@aol.comhttp://www.billhughes.com/>

the clutch fork doesn't look like the one in the diagram-the slave cylinder push rod enters on the passenger's side, and there is a pivot ball on the driver's side -I checked-pulled the inspection plate-and I could see the ball still there. However, there never was part 20 from the beginning when I opened it up...Is that plastic?

Reply to
alexmacpherson

twenty:

formatting link
like a part you could pop in from>> the outside, via a mirror and prayers.>> God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0>> mailto: snipped-for-privacy@aol.comhttp://www.billhughes.com/>>

From my experience with CJ's if the parts don't 'look' the same as the drawing, you have the wrong parts....

I went through 3 or 4 throw out bearings trying to find one to match mine, then gave up piecing it together and bought a kit with a totally different bearing again in it. The one in the kit matched though.

There is a slot in some of the bearings the shift fork slides in and others had clips on the back. One made the fork in the wrong place.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06
formatting link
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Reply to
Mike Romain

twenty:

formatting link
a part you could pop in from> >> the outside, via a mirror and prayers.> >> God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0> >> mailto: snipped-for-privacy@aol.comhttp://www.billhughes.com/>

The new throwout bearing seated the same way that the previous one did, with 2 spring tabs and 2 little stubs that mate with holes in the throwout bearing's collar. I did not think to measure the throwout bearing height compared to the old one..they appeared to be similar. Note: I did find yellow plastic fragments in the sludge at the bottom of the bellhousing when I first removed it and cleaned it. I'm guessing that was the previous pivot that had worn away. My temporary pushrod solution seems to work -the clutch disengages fully. Could I just find an adjustable push rod and use that?

Reply to
alexmacpherson

Height was a big issue on mine. The bearings were different height as well as some grabbed different. The interesting part was the different designs actually fit on the fork.

If you got a different height one and everything works with the shorter rod, I would think about just changing the rod. As long as you still have enough travel, you should be ok.

Mike

Reply to
Mike Romain

Thanks for your insight guys, very much appreciated!

Reply to
alexmacpherson

Does the clutch fork have spring clips? Did you hook the spring clips over the release bearing? At first glance it looks like that's what you're supposed to do, but then they push the slave cylinder piston back in and throw it out of adjustment. The spring won't let the hydraulics "pump back out", but the 6" socket extension bottoms out the self adjustment of the slave cylinder so it seems to work normally.

Fortunately it's an easy fix if that's the problem. Pop the fork off the pivot ball, pull it off the release bearing, and feed it back in so that both the springs and fork ends fit in the same groove of the release bearing. There should be room to do that without dropping the transmission again.

-rev

Reply to
The Reverend Natural Light

Not sure if that is the case...the retaining spring tabs on the clutch fork don't seem to allow the bearing to seat any other possible way...however, I have confirmed that I am indeed missing the plastic 'pivot' that rides on the end of the push rod and I have ordered that part..hopefully that will help. The amc 150 clutch setup is not exactly the same as the GM 2.5 or the 6 cyl - most diagrams show the 6 cylinder or the gm...my Haynes manual was this way too - there was no diagram showing the clutch fork that I have. (I should have a FSM!!)

Reply to
alexmacpherson

twenty:

formatting link
like a part you could pop in from> the outside, via a mirror and prayers.> God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0> mailto: snipped-for-privacy@aol.comhttp://www.billhughes.com/>

You were bang on Bill! I got the part from the dealer, slapped it in, and it works! Thanks!

Reply to
alexmacpherson

MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.