New Ring and Pinion Set OR Edge System Intake-Throttle Body- Control set

I have a 2000 TJ Sahara manual transmission. Good shape, used mostly on the road for daily driver. But for hunting and looks I got a 4 inch lift, front and rear TrueTracs, and tires went up to 33s. It looks good, drives well on road, and gets me in and out of the hunting area with ease.

However, 5th gear lags too much to use on the road. Engine is the 4.0L.

I know I can change the ring and pinion set front and rear, but I'd like your thoughts on the Edge System for a HP increase instead.

One downside of the Edge System is that my high lift jack is under the hood and I think the intake will be in the way of the jack. I have a new Warn tire carrier and bumper which can't accommodate the jack and I really don't want to change it. So, I'll have to find some way to carry the jack.

snipped-for-privacy@cox.net

Reply to
Masnor
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Anybody who thinks some snake oil cure is going to add enough HP and torque to overcome the increased rolling diameter 33 inch tires is seriously deluded. Even with stock suspension the use of 5th gear is iffy unless you have a downgrade or one heck of a tail wind.

The 4.0, especially the later MOPAR versions, are pretty close to optimum on the intake side - you would do better by looking a better exhaust headers and opening up the exhaust.

Reply to
Will Honea

I like this answer. There is only one REAL cure for lifts and big tires and it is called GEARS. There are many that think they can "fix"it with a intake or exhaust or a chip but you cannot and are fooling yourself. Think of deeper gears as a bigger longer lever or pry bar as it takes less input force to move a load with a bigger lever and it takes less drive dtrain torque to move vehicle with deeper gears. Your engine may be rated at around 190 HP but at say

2000 RPM it is only making about 75 HP (HP is torque x RPM divided by 5252) and when you lift it and install bigger tires you increase HP requirements due to increased drag while loweringr RPM so there is less power availble to overcome this. Installing deeper gears rasies engine RPM in any given gear at any given speed and so there is more power avaible to overcome load. No snake oil add on is going to fix this but there is a few in this NG that would lead you to believe that it is not a problem and that tall gears and loss of proper usage of 5th is just fine. Sad part is that not only do you loose 5th but you also loose effective pulling power in every other gear too unless you regear it. No add on short of a supercharger is going to give you the torque you need to overcome this without a gear change but then you are straining engine and drivetrain more doing so. Best real solution here is gears. Below is a link for a axle ratio and tire size calculator if you want to play with some numbers, Also remember that you just do not want to match your same effective ratio because a lifted 4x4 has more drag so you want to actually gear a little deeper than just a equivlent.

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TheSnoMan.com

Reply to
SnoMan

Gears are the only way to properly fix it and restore the peformance you remember. I'd like to see a picture of the hi-lift mounted under the hood, if you dont mind.

HTH

Carl

Reply to
Carl S

Ya got what ya got for gear use, no amount of tweaking will do much for that. The 4.0 is pretty well tweaked....

Basically you have to change the gear sets if you have the bucks or just grin and bear it and forget about a 5th gear or OD like some of us do. I have been managing quite well for almost ten years with 33's and get

23 mpg highway just using 4th. Off road, well I am the one everyone tries to follow to see if they can get where I am so no issues there. LOL!

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail > I have a 2000 TJ Sahara manual transmission. Good shape, used mostly on the
Reply to
Mike Romain

Yes cheapskates and wannabees like yourself for sure.

You have very low standards for sure and you are not getting 23 MPG either unless you are going slow with no head wind or drafting behind a semi. It is likely another one of your tials to make you feel better about your cobbed up rig.

Your are a dreamer for sure. A old Sami with a good driver you kick you dream machines butt of road going place you would never get and I know my old old J20 would eat it up on a very seriously steep hill climb. THe reason you have no issues is because you simple do not know any better as you have not learned much in last 10 years.

----------------- TheSnoMan.com

Reply to
SnoMan

I haven't seen any pictures, just your unsigned bullsh*t! God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O mailto: snipped-for-privacy@aol.com

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Reply to
L.W. (Bill) Hughes III

So, what you're saying is that Mike should spend hundreds of dollars replacing his drive axle gears so that he can use 5th gear even though he currently doesn't need it.

That makes as much sense as taking up smoking because your car came with a cigarette lighter...

Reply to
aarcuda69062

I concur with the other posts, regearing would be preferable since that will put the enging back in its happy powerband. If memory serves you have 3.73 ratio (in the Sahara) so you could increase without replacing your carriers, but it looks as if you did when you had the Tru Tracs installed. That would have been the perfect time to regear, it would had added minimal labor to the job.

I'd recommened 4.10's at least, I have 4.56's in mine with 33" tires. I did replace the speedo gear but it still reads 60 when I'm going 55 by the GPS. One of these days I'll get the correct speedo gear.

Remember engines typically have a finite life, and increasing power output will increase internal wear and stresses that will decrease useful life and create more maintenance issues down the road.

Reply to
Matt Macchiarolo

You asked about the under the hood mount. This is the link

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There is a bit of con discussion on the forums, but I like the mount. Contrary to the forum discussion a little over one half of the weight rests on a roughly U-shaped bracket that is 99 percent of what you buy. The rest is a bit of rubber tube to protect one support rod and a spring tie-down. The U-shaped bracket goes over the battery (which concerned me, but I've replaced the battery with little extra effort. The bracket is supported by three points - two on the firewall and one under the back of the fuse box on the inner fender. The fire wall supports use existing bolts that you loosen and the bracket slides down into slots. The third support point under the fuse box uses a longer replacement "bolt" which I didn't really need.

Access to the battery for jump starts is no problem. If you even think you will need to replace the battery on the trail, BE SURE to take the right tools. Getting to the two firewall bolts is not easy, but is possible from the ground. It is one of those times when you only turn a bolt about 1/16 of a turn at a time. But, you will only do this every few years when you replace a battery. In between those times you will have your jack, it will be clean, and having it warm and dry in the winter is a really good thing.

The base of the jack is over the battery. There is a rubber shield flap (more for piece of mind than any potential for shorting out). The base is held securely in place by a bolt pointing up from the bracket that goes through one of the holes in the jack upright. A nut, modified to be hand tightened by the application of a plastic fitting, holts the jack down. The "plastic" part is not cheap. The hand tighten nut looks vaguely like a water faucet handle. I have to tighten it when I change the oil, but it is secure. And, it has a tether. The top of the jack rests on top of the driver side support bar which you have to turn upside down for hood clearance. The top of the jack can just touch the power steering fluid cap on occasion. You have some horizontal adjustment as to where the top of the jack rests.

If you wash off the mud and dust from time to time under the hood the jack will stay relatively clean. What does collect on it is often slightly oily which only serves to keep the jack from rusting. It is out of sight and I think less likely to be stolen. It has been very warm when I've used it in the summer, but it has not been too hot to touch - as suggested in one of the forum comments.

Also for me, it has always been convenient to get to. The forum suggests the jeep will be in a precarious condition and that the hood will be a bad place to access. Maybe, but I'd rather be on the side of the jeep than in front or behind it.

BTW, I have no relationship with mapgear.net or the On_Product inventor, other than being a customer.

Reply to
Marc.Masnor

THANKS TO YOU ALL

I had trouble with my Outlook Express, and I didn't think my post had been sent. It was a happy surprise to see it and your respones when I looked through Google Groups.

I really appreciate the advice. I'll save up for the ring and pinion sets.

Thanks Again,

Masnor

Reply to
Marc.Masnor

The best way to fix all the problems with outhouse express and internet explorer is

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Chris

Reply to
c

Thanks.

Reply to
Carl S

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