No Coolant flow in 5.9

Did you find that temperature sender? I like to take out the sender, fill the coolant, and wait until some comes out the sender hole. In my experience this gets rid of all "air locks" that might be your problem. Now if your upper radiator hose is actually empty, you need to fill the radiator until the hose has fluid in it.

Earle

I've cured air lock by just cracking open the Prestone flush and fill cap on the tee. The air goes "pssssss" then some water comes out. Securely tighten cap.

You will need to try and fill it more I believe. There should be no air at all in a cold system. As it expands when hot, it goes to the over flow and comes back when it cools down so the rad is always full to the top.

Mike

I have fluid up to the thermostat hole, and I tried squeezing the air out of the upper hose while filling the rad. Problem is that the hose is higher than any spot I can fill it. Yes I did find the sensor, have to replace it yet, but I know I haev a probelm other than that with the flow, so I'm still working on it.

I always install flushing tee. It makes burping the trapped air an easy task.

Aloha Just a though that I am sure you have already eliminated, but is there a chance the themostat could have been installed backward? Aloha Joe in Maui

snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:

Well, I've reached the limit of what I can try in the driveway, so it's going to the shop today. I didn't want to take it anywhere, but I talked to the mechanic I always use (He only works on foreign cars usually) and he said he would diagnose and let me fix if I wished, or fix it for me depending on what he finds. I'll let you all know when I get it back.

Mikhail

You can always just park uphill or jack the front of the vehicle up in the air so the fill hole is at least level with the rad hose.

I highly suspect you have the wrong rad hose on there or it is twisted the wrong way.

When you go to fill it, you top it, then leave the cap off while it warms up. The air will then be forced around to the opening in theory. Be careful though, when the thermostat opens, you could get a gusher of coolant and need to be fast with the cap.

One other thing that comes to mind, but I don't know if it is a valid concern on the V8 or not, it is on the I6, but they make 2 different waterpumps for a lot of these engines depending on the market they were made for. Some are normal rotation pumps made for V belts and some are reverse rotation made for serpentine belts.

Maybe someone got the wrong pump in there and couldn't ever figure out why it ran so damn hot so they unplugged the thermostat sender to cover it up and sold the thing....????

Mike

Well I still don't know the problem with the sender/gauge, put a new one in, still not reading, but when I turn the ignition on, the gauge comes up off of the post like it's getting power. Have to troubleshoot that some more as it's more along my line of work. The coolant problem was the radiator, I don't think it had ever been flushed and it was so clogged up it wouldn't flow at all. I've never paid much attention to flushing myself except when something goes wrong with the cooling system. So a new rad. will get here tomorrow and it should be all good. On another note, my ZJ is of canadian heritage, other than the block warmer anyone know of any other canadian differences?

What condition are your belts and hoses in? If they are 8 years old then they are well overdue for replacement and you might as well do them now. That way you won't be replacing your coolant early.

Make sure the correct coolant is used. DC says Prestone and Peak will cause engine and cooling system damage.... including their 'universal, global, & use in any car' stuff.