Ok, don't laugh or How much does a short block weigh?

Try asking the machine shop if they will pick it up. Most of them have trucks anyway and are glad to pick something up in order to get the work. Slip the guy a $20 or a case of beer or something. Otherwise look for a larger red wagon like most of us had as kids. They make larger ones than in the old days, but buying a case of beer for the machine shop sounds cheaper and easier to me.

Chris

I use a dolly, just one like the guys that deliver milk in crates to stores use. Furniture movers use them too. The engine is top heavy so I tie the top to the dolly. This is for the whole engine....

The short block is not that heavy at all. One person can pick it up and walk with it. Well, a person in good shape.... Two people no problem.

The rental engine hoist comes apart and fits in the trunk or back seat of cars and you can remove the engine, then tuck it into the back of a Cherokee or other Wrangler and just drive it away. I use plywood to sit them on and old tires to hold them in place.

The rental hoist also can be had for half days. One half out, and one half in.

Just so you know, up here in Canada, Chrysler sells a 4.2 short block 'crate' engine for about $1200.00 CDN funds. The last time I checked was in 2000 so prices should be still close.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

William Oliveri wrote:

On that note, a case of beer to a tow truck guy can get his hoist to remove and drop off an engine if you have it all ready to lift out when he shows...

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

What you really need is a buddy with a pick up truck.

Use the truck to bring the cherry picker over to the apartment complex, pull the motor and drop it into the truck, and drag the picker away. It shouldn't take more than about an hour to get this all done. You can pull all of the electrics and many of the bolts before the picker rolls in, and this will trim the exposure time with the manager.

What does it take to unbolt the short block from the frame/tranny. I know there are two engine mounts, one of which I have undone already. What about bolts to the tranny or other things?

Thanks,

Bill

Good plan but ... call the manager and report a "gas like odor" in the stairwell furthest from your parking spot... this will buy you some extra "crap! I forgot to disconnect the..." time.

-Brian

: > If I can get a collapsible engine hoist I think I could pull the engine : > without my manager knowing the better. Then the question is to get the : > block to the machinist. He is only a couple of miles away. : >

: > I was thinking of getting a pull by hand cart to stick it on and pull it : out : > of my complex covered up (like a wagon or something). : >

: > I would need a cart strong enough to carry the short block and would roll : > freely over speed bumps etc. : >

: > Anyone can recommend a cart that might work? : >

: > Thanks, : >

: > Billo : >

: >

:

The manager lives off property and usually strolls through with his dog every once in a while. His daughter lives on property but they are more "relaxed". I don't even know what he'd do if he caught me. I know he told another tenet to stop working on his truck because the appt complex doesn't carry insurance for this kind of stuff.

Well, let's see how sneaky I can be :-)

Billo

Well, there are a couple of options here.

While the motor is out, you might consider checking out the trans and tcase. If so, then the skip plate comes off and the whole mess comes out through the engine bay. Otherwise, you have to unbolt the motor from the bellhousing, I expect to find 8 ~ 10 bolts here, and leave the trans and tcase in place and just lift the motor out.

The motor will be held in by the bellhousing bolts and the two motor mounts. If you elect to pull the trans and tcase at the same time, then there is one trans mount and 6 bolts on the skid plate. You will still have the bellhousing bolts, but they will be much easier to get to on the floor than against the firewall.

You know, you can unbolt the trans at the bell housing (4 bolts) and lift the bell housing and clutch out with the motor, then take the bellhousing off. That makes the most sense. It can be a pain in the ass to get the input shaft of the trans to fit through the clutch while you are dropping the motor back in, but it is possible to do it. It is the inverse of putting the trans back on while the engine is already in place. I could not get my trans on, and I struggled with it for an hour or so, then my kid depressed the clutch and the trans jumped into place so fast I couldn't get my fingers out of the way fast enough. I just needed that last half-inch (less, actually) and depressing the clutch pedal did the trick.

Don't forget to whistle nonchalantly.. that always seems to help a covert operation.

-Brian

: > : > If I can get a collapsible engine hoist I think I could pull the : engine : > : > without my manager knowing the better. Then the question is to get : the : > : > block to the machinist. He is only a couple of miles away. : > : >

: > : > I was thinking of getting a pull by hand cart to stick it on and pull : it : > : out : > : > of my complex covered up (like a wagon or something). : > : >

: > : > I would need a cart strong enough to carry the short block and would : > roll : > : > freely over speed bumps etc. : > : >

: > : > Anyone can recommend a cart that might work? : > : >

: > : > Thanks, : > : >

: > : > Billo : > : >

: > : >

: > : : >

: >

: :

Ok, any "juice" going to come out? Do I need to drain any fluids (other than engine oil and radiator water which have been done already)?

Thanks,

Bill

Nope, manual - T5.

If you unbolt the trans from the bellhousing, the only fluids involved will be the motor oil and the radiator. Well, the power steering might tip over if you are not careful. You can simply unbolt the PS pump and hang it by a coat hanger -- no need to drain it.

You will have some drainage of the fuel lines after you disconnect them.

Frankly, you are the guy with a handful of crank bearings, you should be telling me how to get the motor out. ;-)

bellhousing

My idea, Bill, was that the bellhousing/block bolts will be crammed up against the firewall, and be a bitch to get to. The trans is held to the bellhousing be 4 bolts that are reasonably accessible, but this would require pulling the bellhousing out along with the motor.

Is that the right plan?