Older eyes, dark and rainy nights, the original "H6054" lamps just don't work as well as my 2004 (blush) Toyota Tacoma headlights. I have been Googling and read of "Euro" conversions to halide lamps with separate reflectors and bulbs (that fit in the "H6054" hole and electrical connector). Has anyone tried these and have any comments? Thanks in advance for any advice!
A true Euro conversion almost always require a new harness and relays. They draw much more amps than the stock headlights do. They are also E Code and not DoT approved so they won't pass a "real tight" inspection. They are also glass. If it's a "Euro" conversion that is not a glass lens, run.
Beware of "Euro" conversions that are basically blue-bulbs.
A real common problem with older jeeps is failing wiring for the headlamps. Often building your own harness with relays will give a much brighter light.
Have you upgraded the wiring and/or installed a relay first? Sometimes increasing the gauge of the wires and shortening the wire run might increase the brightness of the lights. OH and NEW bulbs do make a difference!!! 8^)
Thanks for the responses! Good points to consider. Things that I had thought about, but not acted upon were the original relays and wiring. Tomorrow I'll take accurate voltage readings, with lights on, and engine running, both at the battery, and at the headlight socket. Somewhere I read that there could be up to a two volt drop. That would be too much for sure. Anyhow I should be able to post the results by tomorrow night.
Checked headlamp voltages this afternoon. Results were as some had suggested.... Original wires are quite small, and the relays I was looking for were not there! MORE than a 2 volt drop from the battery to the lamp on high beam! a little less on low beam. Here is what I measured, with engine running, after about about 15 minutes: Battery voltage........................13.93 volts High beam, at the socket........11.48 volts Low beam, at the socket.........12.58 volts Voltage drop from battery negative post to the lamp socket negative terminal.... .334 volts, high beam Voltage drop from battery negative post to the lamp socket negative terminal.... .214 volts, low beam It looks like (as some have suggested) just installing relays and heavier wire would help a lot, I can see, again as some have advised, that just putting in better reflectors and lamps is not the entire solution. Relays, new, heavier wires and new lamps it will be.
I would also suggest you locate the ground resistance - that negative drop is a bit much all the way around. Likely just a corroded ground at the lamp assembly, but it could also portend more problems in other circuits if it's at the battery ground strap or the engine-frame strap. I spent a couple of days last Fall going through every ground point on my old MJ (88 vintage) and the result was like a whole new electrical system. Things do get corroded in 20+ years ;-)
I did this to my old Porsche 944 and it made a world of difference driving on unlit country roads.
nate
Thanks, Nate, I'm collecting parts for a relay harness, and will try it with the stock lamps first to see where things are going. Can't believe the voltage drop I was living with using the stock system!
While Cibie lights have been mentioned, I've had excellent luck with Hella conversion lights. I've been running them since 1985 in different cars, and I'll be changing my '00 Cherokee over this Summer. I'll be buying 2 of #003427861 190x132mm kits. The Hella lights are ECE regulation, but I've never had a problem in the 25 years I've been having my cars inspected here in NY State. The cut-off pattern is very sharp on ECE lights, and when you need high beams, it's like daylight! (figure 55/60W per bulb)
Streetsideauto.com has them for $45 each, and when you order
2 you get free shipping! (Plus they rate a 10 at resellerratings.com)
Skinny's is a little more radical than my conversion will be, but the wiring harness is somewhat similar. I should be done this week, and will post my impression of the results, including voltage readings.
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