Peugot BA5/10 re-install trouble

Where I'm at now: Tranny back in. Can't get it to go into gear. Good pressure build-up at clutch pedal, have bled system repeatedly. With the rear axle in the air, I can spin the back tires if the clutch is in, but they lock up when I let it out even though it feels like I'm in neutral (good side-to-side play at gearshift). If I start the engine and let out the clutch, there is some weak power to the rear wheels and a growling noise (I only let it do this for the short time it took to punch the clutch back to the floor).

Where I've been: Okay, I've had a slow leak in my clutch hydraulic system for about a year. I usually have to top it off every couple of months. No big deal until it accelerated to every week, every day. No leaks evident at the clutch master cylinder or the hose. So I pulled the tranny and replaced the slave cylinder (and the clutch disc while I was in there). Put the tranny back in (had a little trouble lining up the splines, but other than that it wasn't too awful). I did use some cut-off bolts to realign the case and so I wouldn't hang the tranny weight on the clutch (a no-no no matter who you talk to). I did have to have my son twist the rear propellor shaft back and forth to line up the splines at the clutch. When I pulled the tranny, I left it in neutral. when I realized I had to have it in gear to do the above twisting of the propellor to line up the splines, I put the shifter back in and put it in 2nd gear (I think). Then I pulled the shifter back out so I could put the tranny back in. So I shifted gears in the tranny while it was disconnected from the clutch/engine.

Where do I go now? I was going to pull the tranny this weekend, but I have no idea what I'm going to do once it's out. So, I'm saving my energy and doing research. Have I misaligned my synchros somehow? How do you realign them? The tranny was working fine before I pulled it, how likely is it that it died on the table? I noticed that when I pull out the shifter and look down in the hole and have my son turn the back tire (it's still up on the jack stands) and the clutch is in, there is a splined shaft or gear rotating on the passenger side of the hole that has a painted mark on it. Why is that there? I've tried to turn the tire so that the paint mark is at 12:00 and 9:00 and put in the shifter and try to put it in gear, but that hasn't helped. So I think my tranny is still in gear, but the shifter thinks it's in neutral. How do I get these two guys on the same page?

Mike? Bill? Anybody?

Thanks,

Bob '88 Wrangler money pit

Reply to
averyislandboy
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My first guess is that your problem is with your procedure. I would not think that it is in the tranny, unless you did something to it. It almost sounds as if you put the clutch plate on backwards, because you mention the noise is present only when you let the clutch out. that at least tells me that the clutch is disengaging & that the slave cylinder is working. Did you use a new throw out bearing/slave cylinder assy? But the wheels locking up with the clutch pedal out & the shifter in neutral would tell me that something is binding or you are not in neutral. I would pull the tranny & look for something wrong with your R&R procedure. It sounds to me like it is going to have to come out no matter what may be wrong. While it is out, turn the input shaft while in the different gears & neutral.

Reply to
Carlo

My first step would be to pull the lever and look down in the tower, and pry the shift rod back into the neutral position. God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O mailto: snipped-for-privacy@aol.com

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" snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com" wrote:>

Reply to
L.W.(ßill)

I thought about that - but I thought he said he did that already..................never ASS U ME, huh.

Reply to
Carlo

Best I can figure too.

The shifter sounds like it is missing something down in there.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Carlo wrote:

Reply to
Mike Romain

Reply to
L.W.(ßill)

Ditch the peugot. Nick

Reply to
Nick N

Thanks, I was afraid that if I had to pull it again it would end up in the lake. :)

Reply to
averyislandboy

I really, really didn't want to pull the tranny again so I did end up fiddling around in the shifter opening a bit first. So I pulled out the Big Screwdriver (ala John Muir) and gently jimmied around. There was a slotted plate on top that moved side to side that didn't seem to get me anywhere, but underneath that and slightly protruding on the passenger side is some linkage(and none of this stuff is on a blow-apart diagram that I can find). I levered that thing a bit and it slid forward with a nice satisfying metallic clink. I went around and checked my back tire and it spun free. I was quite the ecstatic grease monkey at that point. So in goes the shifter, etc, etc. Everything is working fine now. Thanks for your input. I posted a link below to a picture I took to help someone else locate the linkage (unfortunately, even in macro and with my shoplight throwing light on it, I couldn't get the actual linkage to show up clearly).

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So, the old Jeep is spared from being sold as "As-Is Junk" on ebay once again.

I appreciate all the advice and suggestions.

Reply to
averyislandboy

I'm surprised my manual doesn't mention that you need to have it neutral to put the stick in. You pretty much have to have it in gear to be able to line up the splines, but you also have to have the stick out because it won't clear the body opening. Oh well, crisis averted. It must be one of those things a mechanic is supposed to know. I grew up on VW's and you don't ever pull the stick out, you just disconnect the exterior linkage. Not to mention you can pick the tranny up without blowing out a lumbar disc. I just need to go back to my veedubs . . .

Reply to
averyislandboy

My manual says it has to be in neutral to insert the shifter....

I have the Haynes manual.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Reply to
Mike Romain

Yeah, I've got the Factory manual the PO gave me when I bought the rig. I've been struggling with the justification to buy another manual when I already have one. Now I think I have it.

So the worst thing now about the whole experience is that I've got to retrain my foot to press the clutch only a nudge instead all the way to the floor. It's so tight now.

Reply to
averyislandboy

Well....I got my automotive education in a hap - hazard order. My first experience (after drivers ed in high school - just before I dropped out) was in 1964 @ Bear factory training, Rock Island, Ill. I learned front end alignment, frame straightening, wheel balancing, brakes, etc ..............and didn't know how to use a grease gun until after I graduated. I then went to work as a "front end specialist" . I could run the alignment rack & bust tires (& do lube jobs) - but didn't have a clue about doing tune ups - so I watched, asked, & learned. Then got drafted & became a "close tolerance aircraft machinist (had never heard of a lathe or milling machine). Worked on F-100's, F-4's, C130's, B52's ,KC135Q, & the SR-71 for a while. If they ordered a part & it didn't come in - I made it.........but mostly I went out on the flight line & removed stripped screws. But I am still amazed at your ability to give an answer to a vague description of a problem. Many times, I believe that I would have been able to come to the same conclusion after actually looking at the part (in my hands - not a digital picture)..............I am impressed

Reply to
Carlo

Reply to
L.W.(ßill)

......

I also recommend

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for search ofrec.autos.makers.jeep+willys or any group. Links to my BA10/5 slaveinstall
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and other Jeep stuff. MikeMoran's BA10/5 AX15 swap is still the de facto read on the matter
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Email I exchanged with Bob on this:

I bumped the shifter into gear some time during the prep on the top side for the drop. I do not recall any resistance when pulling the shifter out even though it was in gear. I assumed I had done the deed but my 3 year old boy was helping me so he could have been playing with it. It is not a big deal to remedy but is disconcerting after a day of working under the thing.

The problems came during the reinstall. There is a square notch on both shift rails. The left one, 1st and 2nd, should be lined up with the right one, 3rd and 4th. This square notch from the two rails is where the shifter drops into. I realigned the shift rails to neutral with a long flat head screwdriver. I don't have a good photo of what it should look like when it is lined up. You can tell by the feel if the shifter is in neutral. There should be play going left and right.

I did not have any alignment problems with the tranny input spline and the clutch plate. So I did not have to mess with shifter until the last thing when I was buttoning it all up. I also pulled the tranny and transfer case as a unit.

Again if the shifter lever can be moved left and right it is neutral. If not pull it and make sure the rail notches are lined up.

My next project is a on a 94 ZJ Chrysler 42RE automatic transmission. The XJ was totaled last March in a rear end accident. She was able to be driven even though 12" shorter. Odometer was at 260k and the only thing mechanically wrong was the 3/4 synchro.

Reply to
J A Peters

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