piping heat into clifford performance intake

"If you do not want to hook it up you can run without water heat" But when the

>temp drops below 65 degrees your carb will condensate. So hook it up!

do I need a plate to mount the carb to that has a water jacket on it or something like that? any help would be appreciated.

B.

Reply to
brad smith
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These are pretty common items. If you have a Holley 4 barrel, then you can use the Ford plate that was used on the Motor square bore carb. They use the same bolt pattern. If you have a different carb, then you'll just have to find one that matches your carb flange. Post back with the exact carb you have and that will help locate the proper part.

Chris

Reply to
c

Reply to
L.W.(ßill)

I have a Holley 2300 which is a 2 bbl 500cfm carb. I am going to replace it with a lower cfm Webber, prob. a 38. I guess I should probably wait for the new carb to get plate then.

B.

Reply to
brad smith

Does your intake itself not have the water jacket?

The water lines have nothing to do with the carb or it's base plate, the water runs through the manifold, then out the back to the heater core inside.

It is in 'series' with the heater core so it doesn't rely on the thermostat in any way, the heater hose bypasses the t-stat.

You also likely need a hot air intake for the air filter. You must have that to pass emissions around here and I don't care how hot the intake manifold or carb base is, it 'will' freeze up without the hot air intake.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

brad smith wrote:

Reply to
Mike Romain

Probably the best thing to do. The Holley 2300 shares the same bolt pattern with the Motorcraft 2 barrel, so that plate would work with your existing carb. If the Weber requires an adapter plate, then I would get the proper coolant plate so that it sits directly under the carb instead of below the adapter plate. There should be one available for your application. You may also want to incorporate a shutoff valve to the hose that supplies the carb with warm coolant. This way in the summer time you can turn it off to prevent the carb from boiling and possibly vapor locking.

Chris

Reply to
c

here is what I have for an intake:

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and here is a shot of the carb w/ air cleaner mounted to the intake:

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there are also some pictures of my header replacement at
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they are large so use a high-speed connection.

hope that answers some the questions and thanks so much for the help guys!

Brad.

Reply to
brad smith

My Clifford intake manifold had the water inlet & outlet on a plate covering a small hollow area on the bottom of the manifold. You can either run a short piece of metal brake line from the exhaust manifold to transport hot air to heat the manifold or you can route a coolant line through it as I did. My Weber carb has a coolant controlled choke so I routed it through that as well. I went from a rough running motor with ice forming under the manifold to a smooth running machine. When its really hot out it acts to cool the intake manifold and prevents it from overheating. I ended up taking off the manifold to see the hookups underneath it. Once off it was easy enough to see what type of adaptors were needed. You may find the heat riser line from the exhaust manifold sufficient for your needs and a lot easier to engineer.

Reply to
Jumpin' Jiminy

Someone else mentioned that the water jacket holes are in the bottom of the manifold. They sure aren't on top like a stock one and don't appear in your photos. If they are there, then likely they just need a plug unscrewed and an adapter screwed in to fit the heater hose to. It will be a standard pipe thread adapter, 'likely' a 1/2" one.

Then the top heater hose (top of t-stat housing)loops over and goes to the front of the manifold and continues on out the back of the manifold and up over the valve cover to the heater core at the firewall.

Even with the warm water in the manifold or in the carb base, sucking fresh cold air will cause ice problems. As the air speeds up going down the venturi, it condenses and causes ice.

That is the big issue with that 'off road only' air filter you are using. It has no place to suck hot air like a street legal air filter has. I have had those freeze on several occasions. Forget 'several', change that to 'tons of'.

Nothing like having the rpm stay at 3000 and opening the hood to find a block of ice where the carb should be.

A proper air filter has a vacuum and thermostat operated bypass that sucks warm air from the exhaust pipes until the air inside the air filter is actually heated up. You can make an air shroud out of a chunk of tin or sheet metal for the hot air intake on the header and just use a couple muffler clamps to hold it on, but you need a proper air filter to use it.

Maybe get a 'winter' air filter and keep the pretty one for summer off roading?

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

brad smith wrote:

Reply to
Mike Romain

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