Just changed all the hoses on my 81 CJ7, 258 engine, ran the engine for a few minutes with cap off, but at least a gallon of antiF/water less went back in then came out. I remeber when I was changing radiator in daughter's YJ last year everyone here said I may have to burp the radiator. So question is, what exactly does that intail?
I ran the engine with cap off and heater on for about 3 minutes and radiator overflowed.
Just make sure the heater hoses are lower than the level of coolant in the rad so they don't air lock. If you have heat out the back hose from the manifold to heater core you should be ok.
Having it blow out means the head is air locked usually. If you fill it and just let it sit, the air can work out past the t-stat so you need to keep topping it up or you wait for that explosion that happened when the t-stat opens and fill it up after that mellows out to a flow past the rad cap opening.
If you don't get a flow and only get steam or tiny bubble foam, you might have head gasket or thermostat issues.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT'sGreg wrote:
Thanks both for the replies, I read online about getting rad higher then the rest and since there is a 6' bank of dirt behind the jeep I may try that, just run the front up and open cap.
Yup.
By today it might even have already settled the air out by gravity.
Mike
Greg wrote:
Greg ( snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com) wrote on Friday 18 March 2005 08:32 pm:
Greg,
The easiest way I found to burp the radiator is to fill the radiator with the heater line from the thermostat housing disconnected. When you see fluid starting to appear in the thermostat housing, pop the line back on and tighten it down. Most of the air will be out by then, and your block will be full of antifreeze (the -really- important thing).
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