Removing the head on a 4.0 Wrangler

I prefer to leave them on unless I am changing the gasket.

Your lifters are bad? That is unusual. Be sure you just don't have on a bad filter like those Frams eh. Their drainback valve is no good so it makes the lifters sound 'really' bad on cold starts, 'really' bad.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 'New' frame in the works for '08. Some Canadian Bush Trip and Build Photos:

Thanks Mike for the information, I was using Fram filters and the lifters would clatter on hot or cold start ups. I now use AC Delco or Mobile One filters. The lifters still clatter but only on cold starts and they quiet down after a couple of seconds. I figure if they clatter at all this can't be good and it will just get worse so that's why I thought that they should be replaced.

I also suspect it could have a bad head gasket. It's using about a quart of anti- freeze a month. There are no obvious leaks and I can't figure out where else the anti-freeze is going. There are no other clues of a bad head gasket. We bought the Jeep new so I know that it has never over heated which makes it hard to believe that the head gasket could be bad. But where else could the anti-freeze be going except out the exhaust. Recently got a check engine light saying the cat. converter was bad. I understand that coolant in the exhaust can cause the converters to fail prematurely. If it is burning coolant then I need to get it fixed before it destroys another catalytic converter. This vehicle only has 70,000 miles on it. Shouldn't be having these problems. Any thoughts or guidance would be appreciated. ( Please don't say buy a Ford, my wife loves her Jeep)

Thanks again, Dennis

Dennis,

Sometimes coolant drips out the water pump seal and you never see it. Have you dried the clean newspaper under the car trick? Your losing coolant problem is "way" more important than your noisy lifters, because you never know when it is all going to leak out at once. If it is leaking into one of the cylinders, you should see some difference in the spark plug for that cylinder.

Cheers,

Earle

I don't think I've ever had lifters that were noisy on cold start that quieted as it armed up that weren't helped or completely cured by Mike's filter idea plus a good stiff detergent treatment. I almost always start with a quart of ATF in the crankcase (drain/siphon some oil out first) about 100 miles or so before an oil change. Drive it for that 100 miles, change oil and filter and drive until the next oil change is due. Repeat as necessary, but unless it's really gummed up one shot is usually enough although my current one took about three rounds to finally quiet down. It had 110k on the clock then and at 185k it's still quiet.

SeaFoam from NAPA. :)

Also make sure it's not a cracked exhaust manifold. That also make a lifer like tick and seals when warmed. Of course the cracks eventually spread and the I6 starts to sound like a diesel.

I use synthetic oil, will ATF mix and not hurt anything by thinning the oil too much?? Not sure if it would, just asking.

Thanks, Dennis

I've got a broken stud in the head on mine. Very back bolt on the exhaust/intake combo. It started out making the tick and then quieting down. Now it's progressed to the point that the idle is too high until it warms up. Guess I'll have to get the old F-100 running so I can pull the damn Jeep apart. All this while I've got the FLT scattered all over the shop floor for a winter rebuild.

-- Old Crow "Yol Bolson!" '82 FLTC-P "Miss Pearl" '95 YJ Rio Grande BS#133, SENS, TOMKAT, MAMBM

Thanks mr.som ting wong for your response. I have noticed that the seams on the radiator are always wet as if they are seeping coolant. especially on the top. When I pressurize the system I can't see any bubbling or leaking around the seams so I didn't think this could be the source of the leak. Is it possible I could be losing coolant in the form of steam or evaporation through the radiator seams??

Thanks again, Dennis

That's it then. The coolant is evaporating once it leaks out, so you never perceive it as a leak. If that is a plastic tank radiator, and I am sure it is, then the tank got warped from heat, just enough to make the seal leak. Your next stop is a radiator shop. I would fix that first, because as I said before you never know when your small leak is going to turn into a big leak.

Yep. If you really want to be sure, you can wash off the radiator real well and put some of that fluorescent dye in the coolant. I wouldn't bother, because if it is wet there, it isn't supposed to be.

Cheers,

Earle

Ok, Thanks.

Dennis

You can get all metal replacements for those, it is a common failure point.

Mike

LOL! Around these parts, this is what we call a leak. Time for a new radiator. I prefer

Of concern is why your radiator began leaking. Age and/or incorrect fluid types are the usual suspects. G-05 is indicated on my charts for an '01 DC/Jeep product. Check with your owner's manual and stick with the exact formulation they prescribe.

-Outatime Wheelin'-n-Grinnin' in Central CA, USA

All those plastic things take to fail is one incorrect move when changing the t-stat.

If you lift up on the top rad hose with the thermostat's housing on the end to move it out of the way to put a new t-stat in, vs removing the hose at the rad first, then removing the t-stat housing, the stress put on the tank is enough to make them fail.

A few have come my way with this failure for the above reason.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 'New' frame in the works for '08. Some Canadian Bush Trip and Build Photos:

Or if you look at it funny. This might explain why mine is still working. The four cylinder's radiator hoses are very, very long.

More snow today...

Earle

If changing the oil filter fixes the lifter problem and getting a new radiator fixes the coolant problem, this will sure be a lot easier then what I was going to do. It's worth a try. I'm glad I checked with you guys first. Thanks all for your time and information.

Dennis.

And don't forget the sneaky tick, that defective manifold. A chunk of garden hose held to the ear and down around the exhaust manifold collectors can help ID that one.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 'New' frame in the works for '08. Some Canadian Bush Trip and Build Photos:

Make sure you replace the radiator with an all metal one to avoid future problems. You'll find it won't cost more, might even be less.

Interesting! If that's all it takes to break the plastic OEM radiator, I'm going to install an all-metal radiator before this one breaks. I plan to keep this horse a LONG time, so it's money well spent.

Thanks for the head's-up.

-Outatime Wheelin'-n-Grinnin' in Central CA, USA