Removing the intake and exhaust manifolds

Going by the 93 ZJ 4.0, I had to disconnect and move the PS pump and it helped to take out the air cleaner box. Some of those bolts are impossible to get at with a torque wrench, especially under cyl

2 and 3. I just got a "feel" for the proper torque with a spanner and got the remaining bolts by hand. They don't go on that tight.

Getting the exhaust header off the ZJ engine was an exercise in patience because the clearance between engine and firewall was just enough to squeeze the header off if it was held exactly right.

Prior to bolting it all up prefit the gasket and check to see if any of it intrudes into the intake/exhaust passages and trim that out.

Remember to clean both surfaces and make sure there are no carbon traces on the block, these will cause leaks. Use Permatex copper in a thin coat to help seal the gasket against the engine.

You will have to go back and retighten the bolts the next day after you have had the engine up to temperature, but usually that's the last time.

You will need extensions/wobble extensions and flex head rachets. When I changed my manifold on my 91 YJ I loosened the PS pump and moved it out of the way, removed the intake and fuel rail. Also removing the drivers side tire made it easier to get to some of them bottom bolts.

I used a torque wrench on the nuts I could get to and the rest I used the old German method call Guedentight,

Wobble extensions and flex head rachets, Sounds like I'm in for a long day. Thanks all for the information.

Dennis

Thank you for the information.

Dennis