Replacing a Window Regulator?

I need to replace the LF window regulator in my '89 XJ and since im gonna have to do the job outside in sub-freezing temps I'm looking for a few pointers to make the job go as fast as possible. First whats the best way to get the rivets out and what should i replace them with? What tools will i need, any other tips would be greatly appreciatied. Thanks in advance.

Reply to
Kyonn Gowans
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This is an annoying task.

Grind the rivets and replace with bolts. There is enough room between the door shell and door panel within the indentation for the bolt head.

The window retaining nut thingy is a joy to work with. I think it might be a T19 torx but I'm not positive. On the backside is a shaped washer that the torx threads into. Here's the joy part... keeping that thing from spinning... oh, did I mention there was blue lock tite on the threads?

I created a tool for this task. Purchase a "universal angle grinder wrench".

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will need to bend it to fit and grind the moveable arm to allow the pins to come closer together. The pins will engage the holes on either side of the threaded centre hole on the shaped washer and prevent it from spinning. If this sounds confusing, I can probably get a picture for you. Let me know.

-Brian

Reply to
Cherokee-Ltd

I have never replaced a Cherokee window regulator, per se. But the regulators I have dealt with come out as a unit that is bolted in, and you do not have to remove any rivets.

I think I'd have to get the replacement unit in hand before I even started to take the old one out. That way, I'd have a better idea of what I'm after in the sub-freezing cold.

Reply to
Jeff Strickland

Jeff Strickland did pass the time by typing:

Kyonn might want to think about a wind break while working on the Jeep.

You can run the engine and heater to get the inside nice and toasty, that will help prevent cracking any plastic and give you some heat. Then using some tarp/plastic drop cloth make a tent around the cab and door down to the ground. That will keep some of the wind chill off. A piece of cardboard can block the space under the cab.

Guess you could run the engine/heater to provide more heat, there should be enough circulation that exhaust won't be a problem.

It's much easier if you have a garage in the area that lets you rent space. We used to have a U-Auto-FixIt in the area but lawsuit happy morons ruined it.

Reply to
DougW

I just took an '88 apart and had no problem with the wimdo retaining nut - the ones on both the old door and the new one were something like 19mm nuts and the part that went thru the glass was FIRMLY bonded to the glass on both doors.

I bought 1/4 x 1/2 pan head bolts to replace the rivets and used a 1/4 inch drill to simply drill the heads off the rivets. The trickiest part for me was working the looped tube on the regulator in and out of the door. Get one of those cheapy suction cup gizmos to hold the glass out of the way and for positioning it while you work. I used blue loctite on the bolts just because I don't ever plan to replace them again.

I would suggest gett> This is an annoying task.

Reply to
Will Honea

Thanks for the info guys, I'm really not looking forward to this. is there any way to force the window up without replacing the regulator just yet?

Reply to
Kyonn Gowans

Hey Brian, how are you doing these days? Kevin in San Diego KH

Reply to
Kevin in San Diego

He has apparently managed to turn the Cherokee around in the driveway.

Reply to
Billy Ray

And I have the battery charger on it , caught a mouse in my garage, finished staining my shed... very productive weekend! Next weekend I plan to turn it back around in the driveway, fire up the welder and re-install the rear carpet (after the welds cool).

-Brian

Reply to
Cherokee-Ltd

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