Steering stabilizer?

I had a steering stabilizer in my CJ before I started doing frame swap, bought a new one, but can't remember how it was put on, accually I know how it was put on but not whether the shock is extended 1/2 way and bolted down, or part way, or 3/4 way out?

Reply to
Greg
Loading thread data ...

Reply to
L.W.(ßill)Hughes III

Seems to me that you're the one who needs a Steering stabilizer!!

Ever learning, and never able to come to the knowledge of the truth.

Reply to
Dr.Neuraxis

Centered with the wheels straight. I would double check that the new one has the travel to go pin to pin on the steering.

I am putting new ones on mine also and almost figure if I pin the steering one way, then set the shock 'almost' bottomed or topped, it should go all the way to the other side and still not bottom or top out.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail > I had a steering stabilizer in my CJ before I started doing frame swap,
Reply to
Mike Romain

Ya I did a little reading, all said go full wheel to passenger, extend shock all the way, then back 1/2". Hows your swap going Mike, I put engine back in frame yesterday, gat a seal in transfer case to do then can put body back on. Was going to ask you, what does fiberglass body weight? I've still got roll bar and front in end minus hood, radiator and 1/2 the fenders.

Reply to
Greg

The snow is still on my replacement frame, but it is melting fast. We had blizzards a week ago.

I am soaking everything in PB Blaster right now hoping it might come apart.

I have the steel plating for the rear crossmember here and am about to start cutting out plates. I am going to plate both sides of the frame tails with a 90° angle to pick up the crossmember. My frame is so clean I don't know if I want to weld these plates in or maybe just bolt them onto the frame rails and weld the shackle mounts to them so the mounts will be welded to the bottom of the tails like they now are and reinforced on the side plating..

My rails are open on the tails so I can get inside to either crush tube it or use nuts inside the frame. I think if I put recovery hooks on the sides of the tails of my frame, their bolts and nuts would work to hold the plate, then the plate angles in a 90° to the crossmember and the bumperette bolts will grab it. Have to see what it looks like.

My tub is pretty light. I could pick up up and move it around pretty easily and with two people, and the seat and roll bar in place, it wasn't heavy at all.

Mike

Greg wrote:

Reply to
Mike Romain

I boxed over my frame from tail 6 feet forward, or 2 body mounts, think I told you I got 4"x6" and notched to bend angles. Turned out realy well. Right now I have new furl and brake lines in, new brakes all way around, new mounts, every peice of metal, nut and bolt on or around frame has been blasted or sanded to bare metal then 2 coats of epoxy primer and two coats of epoxy paint, including diffs. I went with endura EP2C primer which is a light green, looked so good I had them match up the top coat so everything under jeep will be light green. Glad to hear I should be able to move body over easily, we moved body and frame complete with full gas tank off to side of driveway, that was a job and a 1/2 with 4 guys, so was wondering how much of that weight wasn't going to be there when I did body.

"Mike Romain" wrote in message news:47fa3f8e$0$693$ snipped-for-privacy@unlimited.newshosting.com...

Reply to
Greg

MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.