Sticking Starter Solenoid on 4.0 ZJ 95?

Anyone had experience with a possibly sticking starter solenoid on a 95 ZJ 4.0 or similar. The starter is allegedly not the same as the Wrangler, but may be the same as the Cherokee...

Symptom: Turn on key. Battery voltage is measured at 12.4 volts at this time, Digital Multimeter [Fluke]

Turn key to start. Not a sound, not even a faint click.

Putting the !@#$!@#$ thing on a flat tow truck and taking it across a somewhat bumpy route to a shop, and the thing won't start right away [again not a click] but on two occasions if you just turn the key off and do it again, you may get one click followed by an immediate start or it may just go ahead and start. Cranking speed is blisteringly fast.

Alternator working great, checked twice by two different shops.

Battery cables tight, clean. Battery is about 6 months old, but a brand new DieHard SUV does exactly the same thing. Both batteries checked for skin charge, but when the solenoid kicks in, the spin rate is very high even in the cold.

Checked the transmission park safety switch. What the heck a new one with O ring is only eight bucks, swapped out.

Damn thing did it again, refused to even click. Back to the shop. Two attempts yielded clicks, 3rd attempt full spinning start, no prolonged cranking.

Found the fuel pump relay under the hood had a small crack along one side, replaced it. What the heck they are cheap, replaced the starter relay there as well.

CURRENTLY it is starting.

The shop loaned me an iron bar and said next time, try smiting the side of the solenoid not too gently, and if that fixes it, they'll order me a starter.

Anything else other than a possible pinched wire somewhere that causes this?

AT 85000 miles on the original, do these solenoids tend to stick such that you get no click whatever?

Reply to
Lon
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I had a similar problem years ago that was caused by a break in a wire that caused an occasional fault.

Reply to
Billy Ray

Yeah, that is my secret nightmare. Where was your break?

Billy Ray proclaimed:

Reply to
Lon

It was repaired at a local garage. I have a vague recollection it may have been in a fusible link but that car was traded-in in 1982 so it has been quite a while ago.

Reply to
Billy Ray

The contacts in the solonoid will tend to pit and corrode to the point where even if it clicks, it might not be making internal contact. Try putting a test light on the small wire to the solonoid and see if you're getting power down there when you turn the key. If you *are* getting power, but the starter doesn't do anything, change the solonoid.

-- Old Crow '82 FLTC-P "Pearl" '95 Wrangler YJ TOMKAT,DOF#51,SENS, BS#133, MAMBM, SLOB#13, DH#2

Reply to
Old Crow

I have seen that happen when the 'other' end of the battery cable was dirty, the end on the engine block or when the other end of the other battery cable was dirty, the positive cable onto the starter relay or the battery cable on the relay.

And I have seen that happen when the ground to the body is dirty, the one from the battery to the fender or firewall I believe it is on a ZJ.

Then the big stick option also is a good way to find out if the starter itself is stuck. Just so you know you can get replacement brushes for the starter for around ten bucks and a rebuild kit for about $25.00. A can of WD40 is needed to clean the guts. Starters are an easy rebuild.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail >
Reply to
Mike Romain

This thread reminds me of what happened to me, twice, buying used GM products. Once off the dealer's lot, the vehicles refused to start. A trip under the front of the vehicle revealed hammer or wrench marks, all over the starter housing. Cleaning the battery cables, both ends, and in one case a new battery, fixed the problem "permanently". I am still driving the second vehicle, five or six years later, hammer marks and all.

Earle

Reply to
Earle Horton

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