Stoopid ?? for first time brake work

Get the Haynes book. You'll need it for more than just brakes, eventually.

1) Yes and yes. I have seen folks use a plastic cap over the brake line flare and I have used pieces of tree branch to plug them, others might have more suggestions. The plug stops the mess only.

2) Yup. A) If the fluid leaks out of one side, you will have to bleed all 4 starting with the one farthest away. It is 'very' unlikely you can get the line plugged fast enough to not need a 4 wheel bleed because air gets to the combination valve easy. You 'might' be able to get away with bleeding just the backs, but....

3) never used one, can't help there.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail >

The brake fluid will slowly drip out. Keep the master cylinder full so it doesn't go dry.

***DO NOT press the brake pedal while the system is open and you'll not have to bench bleed.

***DO NOT press the brake pedal while the drums are off, or while the calipers are off the vehicle. You'll pop the pistons out of the cylinders.

You can gravity bleed the rear, then properly pressure bleed the system once you have the new rear end in place.

Yes, the rear and front are separated systems. The big part of the master cylinder reservoir is for the front brakes, small part for the rear brakes.

You shouldn't have to, but should bleed the front brakes anyway, 1. To be sure the air is out, and: 2. You need to refresh (change) the brake fluid from time to time, and 3. It'll give you a better brake job, overall.

I have no experience with Summit Speed bleeders, but I do with others. It does make it easier, but you need to be able to understand how to bleed brakes to start with in order to use something like that.

Like Bill Kearney said, get a manual, one that explains it in detail, and better yet, find a friend that knows brakes and has experience with it.

Good luck.

Spdloader

Fluid will not run out, it will drip. Don't force a unwilling brake line fitting. heat with a propane torch and then PB Blaster. A second round may be different but it will eventually come out intact. Also use a "line' wrench on the fittings. You should change your brake fluid anyhow. I don't know what a "speed bleeder" is but yes a one man bleeder will work. You may still need to bleed the front.

ditto on getting a Haynes!

JoBo

And, don't use that rusty old can of brake fluid you've had sitting on the shelf for 2 years to refill the system. Brake fluid absorbs moisture once the can has been opened. Moisture in the system leads to a soft pedal... Buy a fresh can of fluid.

Again thanks all.

I do have a haynes manual I did not see any mention of how the fluid will come out which was my main concern. So I will bleed all 4 wheels. I have never seen or have done this myself so I expected the fluid to explode out when I undo the fittings.

I read about brake bleeding start with pass rear, driver rear, pass front and last driver front. Stu Olsens site has a good write up on that which I will follow.

Thanks Clay for the tip on the fluid I was going to use an old plastic container of brake fluid I had for who knows how long it was never opened, would that make a diff. I did not see an expiration date on it If not guess I'll make another trip to the store.

Was trying to save some dough as I just bought new BDS 3.5 springs, a Tom Woods SYE, Drop Pitman Arm, Tranny Mount, Dif and ATF fluids and various size sockes and snap ring pliers. Also got a new T case chain and O ring as my rig has 125,000 mi and figured I change that when I had the tcase open. At least a pal had a heavy duty snap on pitman arm puller which I can borrow. So the cost is a going up. My wife is gonna love this.

Are the sizes on the pic Bill posted

correct for a YJ? as I might aswell get that too.

You're in New York area. Gets pretty cold and warm there. If the stuff's been in the garage, probably went through some major temp swings. Temperature and humididity make moisture. If it's an air tight bottle, never been opened, probably no condensation in it. But for 10 bucks...

I think you got all the brake advice you'll need from these guys.

Get a propane torch for the pitman arm. Snug up the puller on the arm, heat the arm up a little bit, and smack it really hard with a BFH. Pulling with just the puller *will* break the puller.

Carl

Please stay in front of me until you know if your work is good or not.

It only leaks until you plug the line, then it stops leaking. You don't have to have you MC bench blead, you can do this job yourself.

Yes.

Yes, and no.

If you disconnect the rear brakes and plug the line, the front brakes ought to be unaffected. You will need to bleed the rear brakes in any case, and you should bleed the front brakes "just because".

It's true the I can, whether or not you can is another matter.

That's a no, a yes, a guarded yes, and a maybe, and a request that you stay in front until you figure this out.

HAHA

Like the stay in front line.

I'm going to go slow and test my work in an open area.

ufatbastehd did pass the time by typing:

Why do you think Midas says "We stand behind our brake jobs"? Because no one in their right mind would stand in front of it.

Me, I stand beside my work 100%. (cars can't roll sideways) :)

far as I know, that's the only way they roll (over!) *g*

[scary brake story] About 6 months after I got my license, I was driving my moms '66 Plymouth wagon. Following a buddy back to my house to work on the hydroplane he was towing. Came up to the right turn and the signal was red. I stepped on the brakes, heard a clunk, and the pedal went to the floor. Ah, the choices we have to make in life... Straight on into the back of the boat. To the right, up onto the sidewalk and into a concrete light pole. Or two lanes over, through the open left lane and into cross traffic. I grabbed the release, stomped on the parking brake, and spun the wheel left. The wagon slid 90° sideways, ...wound right, then slid 90° to the right and sideways into the intersection. People honking and staring, me examining the busted knuckle I whacked on the window crank, going for the release, while my heart settled down.

Dad had just done the brakes and put the mechanical adjusters in backwards. When the left rear one backed off, the drum fell apart. Being a single cylinder system, the only brakes left was the right rear via the parking brake. The left rear tire made a nice "S" shaped skid mark.

Had mom been driving, things probably would have been ugly... wreck, divorce, etc.

Bill Kearney proclaimed:

Get the Factory Service Manual. As good as some of the Haynes are, they are not even in the same league.