Tow Hooks for 01 TJ

Hi All,

I have just bought four ARB 10k lbs rated tow hooks and before I go and start installing them (I have to wait for the cyclone to stop dumping rain in Auckland), I just wanted to ask a couple of questions. I have done my research on the internet and found a number of links, an example of which is:

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Front tow hooks: Am I simply going to remove the top two bolts from each side and put the tow hooks and secure them in place? I will be taking that eyelet of a tow point off as it is very difficult to put any decent size shackle or rope through the hole. I have grade 5 bolts that came with the tow hooks, should I use them or just put the factory bolts back on? Whats the rating on factory torx bolts? Additionally, when I take the bolts off, are there any nuts on the back that might fall off into the frame somewhere? If yes, whats the best way to install these hooks and not lose the nuts. I do have nuts that came with the hooks as well.

Rear tow hooks: I realise that I will have to probably drill an extra hole for each tow hook. However, I just wanted to ask for the best way of installing them. I have seen on the internet that people mostly install the back hooks on the side of the frame (as shown in the bottom picture on the above link). Why can't I drill a hole on the bottom of the frame and use one bolt/hole by which the bumper assembly is attached to the frame? What about the nut behind that bolt, is it fixed to the frame? I can drill a second hole just behind it and install the hook on the bottom facing downward. I don't think it will cause any problem with the departure angel. I will be taking that eyelet (factory part) off, so it should be okay, right? The only thing might be the chances of rope slipping off if the hook is facing downward, can I then install rope retaining clips to avoid it?

Thanks in advance for all your input. TW

Reply to
TW
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Reply to
Casey

Well, for starters, I'd go pick up some grade 8 bolts (not the 5's that came with the hooks). Make sure they match the thread of the originals, too. The original torx bolts aren't going to be long enough to use with the hooks, so it doesn't really matter what their rating is I guess (although I doubt they are even grade 5). No, no nuts on the factory bolts.

D>Hi All,

Reply to
David C. Moller

Thanks for that. I am trying to source a store/website that is willing to ship the service manual to New Zealand. I need the one that is specific to RHD export models. I have been given a number to call in Belgium by the Tech Authority. I'll try them.

Cheers, TW

Reply to
TW

All the people that I have talked to at our local club and auto shops prefer to use grade 5 bolts for automotive application because they are more likely to bend rather than break under stress like grade 8. That was the main reason why I was sticking with grade 5. I think the reasoning is also that if I am putting enough stress on the frame/tow strap/winch to damage a grade 5 bolt, I am likely to break something else, meaning more expensive part, before the grade 8 bolt gives. Can you enlighten me with why you prefer grade 8? May be you know something that I might not have thought about. Thanks.

Thanks. I'll just have to wait for the weather to clear a little. I guess I can keep the factory bolts for spares to be used somewhere else on the TJ.

I guess that does make sense because the frame is rectangular (more in height than width) rather than square. Therefore, drilling a hole in the bottom could weaken it. I have put the tow hook in place by hand and judging by the lines, it does not seem to alter the departure angle if I install them facing down. Beside if I had bought OEM rear hooks (pricey), they are installed on existing holes facing downward without altering departure angle. The gas tank seems to take care of the that. I am still waiting for the rain to stop so that I can experiment ( I don't have a covered garage).

Thanks TW

Reply to
TW

Reply to
L.W.(ßill)

"Again, you can see that the grade 8 will support over 1000 lbs more or a 1/2-ton more. But there?s something more important to note. The grade 5 fastener has already reached its ultimate load and FAILED BEFORE the grade 8 starts to yield or stretch. Therefore, the argument that you should not use grade 8?s because they are more brittle than grade 5?s is not a true statement in most applications."

Dave

Reply to
David C. Moller

Thanks Bill. I have just checked the factory bolts and they have three marks, thus grade 5. I think I'll stick to grade 8 bolts, now finding them will be tomorrow's task.

Cheers, TW

Reply to
TW

Thanks, I don't think the local club has any such requirement for grade 8 here. I have taken some photos of what it looks like now (front and back) and I'll take some more once I am done with it. The factory bolts have three marks, thus grade 5.

Cheers, TW

Reply to
TW

Reply to
twaldron

Great pull Bill. Very good article. Brian

Brian's Military Jeeps of WWII

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Reply to
Brian French

Hi Bill,

Can you tell me what the thread size is for the bolts on TJ bumpers? I have located a local supplier/manufacturer of grade 8 bolts, but he needs to know thread size, diameter and length for the bolts to ship them to me. Also, does Jeep come with UNC or UNF standard bolts? This may sound trivial to you, but I am still in the process of getting my hands on the FSM for export models.

Thanks in advance. I have learned a lot from your posts.

Cheers TW

Reply to
TW

Reply to
L.W.(ßill)

I used euro grade 12.9 which is slightly stronger than Grade 8, but the nearest equivalent. Can't remember what the dimensions were - the easiest thing is to pull one of them and take it to the shop for comparison.

Dave Milne, Scotland '91 Grand Wagoneer, '99 TJ

Reply to
Dave Milne

Oh well, thanks for trying anyway. I wish I could drive to the manufacturer, but they are about 1500kms away in South Island (I am in North Island). I have sent a message to the local Jeep dealer and hopefully they will come back with bolt sizes for the TJ.

Thanks. TW

Reply to
TW

I wish I could send one bolt to the shop, they are in Christchurch and I am in Auckland. I'll keep searching or trying shops till I find the size, then I can go to the manufacturer and have them supply the properly graded grade 8s or 12.9s.

Do you know a source for buying a factory service manual for export model Jeeps, especially the RHD variety? I am asking this as you are in Scotland.

Thanks TW

Reply to
TW

I got mine from the dealer; only took him a few days to get it ! It cost me about 65 GBP for it.

If you really really are stuck and can't get one, I'm sure I can post you one. Postage would be about 24 quid airmail or 12 quid surface mail (56 days - gulp !!). But honestly, the dealer is going to be able to do it for you - its no different to getting any other factory part !

Dave Milne, Scotland '91 Grand Wagoneer, '99 TJ

Reply to
Dave Milne

Thanks for your reply. The last time I asked the dealer, their reply per email was "the Factory Service book/CD is not available from DaimlerChyrsler". I am going in tomorrow for something else and I'll check with a different guy or the Service Manager and see if I can source it from them. Otherwise I might just bug you, if you don't mind. I will be happy with a CD 'cause I can keep printing the pages I need to work on the area I am working on at the time.

May be you can give me details of your dealer and I can try asking them to ship it New Zealand directly (just trying to minimise incovenience to you).

Cheers, TW

Reply to
TW

That's complete bull. I'll see if I can find out the part number of the book for you from my local dealer. Who else does your dealer advocate getting a DC part from ??!?? The other thing you might try is to email techauthority directly.

Thought we might have seen "mic canic" chipping in here ?

Reply to
Dave Milne

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