In article , snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote: #I got a new set of wheels/tires for my 91. I was able to loosen all #but 1 lug nut. Put the other 4 back on. Get them nice and *hand*tool* tight.
Did the cap come off the lug nut? If it did, you now have a metric lug nut. 17mm or 18mm, iirc. If you still have the cap, you can use it to "adapt" the metric lug nut back to a 3/4" one. The problem is that the sheet metal is kinda fragile and it only works once or twice before the sheet metal tears.
#I've read lots of suggestions, but need to know, how do I proceed with #doing the least damage?
Go to Sears and buy this or something equivalent to it:
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You can also use a flex head handle without the ratchet:
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just find the ratchet is more useful overall... You want the longer handle. This way, you don't need a cheater bar.
The flex head lets you have a bit more working room away from the sidewall while still remaining fairly close to the lug nut. The problem with most tire irons is that it seems that half your effort is being used to keep the tire iron from slipping off the lug nut and that you can never get enough leverage. Never mind most have cheapie
6-point sockets made out of pot metal.
Use a 12-point 3/4 inch socket (if your cap came off, then you will need a 12-point 18mm (or was it 17mm?) socket).
If the lug nut is totally stripped to hell, then you will need this:
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Once you loosen the bad nut tiny bit, leave it on and loosen the other nuts a tiny bit in a star pattern, then loosen the bad one again and repeat.
If you have stock sheet-metal covered lug nuts, replace them with good quality solid ones.
#What's involved with replacing the studs if it comes to that? Front or rear?
/herb