u-joints and ball joints on 93 cherokee sport

This is just a though but you might be money ahead to swap out the whole front axle with a good one from a bone yard. It would only take maybe a few hours of labor at most if mech knew what they were doing and it would likely cost you less overall. You could tea into that one and find damage in hub assemble and cost more money to fix and those ball joints are a pain to change and could cost more in a rust belt area if they are fused in there with rust.

----------------- TheSnoMan.com

Sounds high. Even with new spindles both sides you should be under $300 for parts. Try "Cheap Jeeps" in Framingham. To him a favor by bying a couple cans of Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster (not wd-40) a couple weeks before the job and soak everything in the hub area down from the back side of the wheels several times.

Hmm.. on the 93ZJ it's three bolts and the whole axle slides out.

new OEM Right shaft is $473If you have ABS the shaft is only $409If you have disconnects the shaft is $348

Have a weekend and a mechanically incline friend?

lots of penetrating fluid, and maybe a couple extra hub bolts to beaton, to drive the hub spindle out of the knuckle God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0mailto: snipped-for-privacy@aol.com

Sounds pretty spendy. The XJ should have the standard U joint, not the cardigan. Replacement U joint runs $10 to $15 plus labor. If the bearing hub comes out easily, about an hour labor in a good shop. If it comes out hard (plan on it given the salted roads!!) , a GOOD shop can handle it without too much extra time. If they don't do these very often, they might try to get you for 4 hours. That is per side so $200 to $250 for both sides would not be out of line.

I'm showing $185 for a ball joint set (per side) from

. Expect half that at NAPA. No idea on the labor cost.

I'd expect some play > Hi all,

I doubt that in Boston as I am sure labor cost more for everythime up there and going rate is likely at least $100 a hour plus repair a front end that has issues or failures is not the same as normal tear down plus someone mentioned a 10 or 15 dollars joint up there but not me, no cheap joints there.

----------------- TheSnoMan.com

Hi all,

Thanks for all of your opinions. I'm trying to get things together. I'll give the suggested shops a call and see what happens. I really would prefer not to get rid of this ride... I have to make the sound choice though...we'll see.

Best, Bret> Real Jeeps protect their Universal-Joints via enclosed

knuckles:

of course being a Dana25 it

messagenews:46311ab2$0$16388$ snipped-for-privacy@free.teranews.com...

If you decide to do the U joints yourself, ask for advice on how to pull the wheel bearing hub from folks who live in the rust belt. Bill lives in LA land where rust is not the big issue.

bret> Hi all,

knuckles:

of course being a Dana25 it

messagenews:46311ab2$0$16388$ snipped-for-privacy@free.teranews.com...

I live in the rust belt also. The last steering u-joint that went on my Cherokee happened as I am loading it for a camping trip, I turned the wheel to shuffle it for loading and noticed it. I sent my son for parts and had it changed and the wheel back on in an hour. (only because I have done a bunch and was in no mood to fool around so used my real BFH, a 10 pounder on it)

I have an extra bolt I use to pound on so I don't damage the stock ones.

I recommend you pull one bolt out and go get a replacement before you start, to use as a beat on bolt.

Once the wheel and brakes are off, I cut the steering to the side so I can get a clear swing at the bolt that is in the back to hit it after all 3 are loosened off. I then cut the steering the other way to get the other bolt. The bottom one I can swing at from the front with the steering cut.

I also use penetrating oil on the seam and the bolt ends to help make it move.

I do not undo the big center axle nut unless I am changing the axle or hub, it all pulls out as one piece and the u-joint can be pressed out without messing with the hub or bearings.

I also use a good coating of antiseize compound on the seam so it comes apart really easily the next time. That silver messy stuff is worth it's weight in gold up here in the rust belt.

The ball joint is another matter. But, if you already have done the u-joint, then the hub will pull out easy for the 'mechanic' to replace it. You can tell him he doesn't need to undo the axle nut also as most don't seem to be aware of this.

Ball joints are a 'ton' of work when rusty and don't seat back in well at all without the proper press. I also have had to cut the nuts off about 80% of the ones I have done because the joint spins before the nut moves on the threads or there is no flats left on the nut to grab.

Good luck!

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail > Hi all,

What Mike said: I have a 6# sledge hammer with the handle cut down to

12". D> I live in the rust belt also. The last steering u-joint that went on my

Mike, try this: get a helper on the impact wrench then as he spins the nut/bolt, rap it nicely with that BFH. The impact of the hammer will freeze it just long enough to start the nut spinning.

I'm beginning to believe that most of the accidents prevented by salting roads actually comes from the fact that half the cars are so rusted out from the salt that they aren't on the road to get involved in accidents.

Rust? God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O mailto: snipped-for-privacy@aol.com