Used or Rebuilt

Ok, I scanned in the reciepts the former owner gave me and posted it on my web site. The first page is regarding the head and the second page is regarding the block. Does this look like a rebuild on the block or a used engine.

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Thanks,

Bill

Reply to
William Oliveri
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Reply to
RickA

Well to me it looks like they purchased a rebuilt long block and had a head job . For all intensive purposes it should be a rebuilt engine (like new). That sure is some thick oil they bought for it on page two! I always reserved that viscosity for engines on thier last leg. Somebody sure spent the bucks on that 258 though. I bought a 81 Wagoneer for $250 (went in with a friend, he got the running gear) rebuilt the 360 for $1200 (complete rebuild) sold the remainder of the wagoneer for scrap and ended up with about $1,385 in the whole deal.

Reply to
Mrbowtie

Well, I didn't post it but this guy also paid over 1000.00 to have his stock carb rebuilt from a chrysler dealer.

That's well over 4000.00 for all this engine work.

Bill

Reply to
William Oliveri

$1000?? holy crap! u sure u didn't put and extra "0" on there? man-all it takes is a couple hrs and a $25 kit...

Reply to
serg

I looked last night and double checked and yes, it's over 1k for this carb rebuild.

I'll bring it in tomorrow just for grins.

bill

Reply to
William Oliveri

Personally, I think the pont is moot. The warranty, if there is one, is not likely to extend to you.

I would not be looking at what happened yesterday, I would only be concerned with what I have to do to get to tomorrow. I understand the implications to you, but those implications exist whether or not the warranty covers you. The warranty might make the pain slightly less, but I don't think you have any warranty protections here.

Reply to
CRWLR

As always, any additional clues to the current state of this engine would be helpful.

It's either

A) a 1980 year used engine that was put into an 83 CJ7 in 1997 (absolutely no idea of previous engine condition).

or

B) a rebuilt short block with a 1980 casting #.

There is about 40k miles that have been put on the engine using 32" tires so It's probably about 10% more since this work so that would give me an idea of what the engine should be like. Just a little.

You're right, the point is moot regarding warranty and I'm not looking for any. This information could be useful should I like to upgrade to a 4.0L head for instance (40k on a rebuild with good compression numbers says yes). Plus, when you know what you got you know what you should expect like "Geez, I only have 40k miles on this rebuild, this shouldn't be doing this"..... etc.

Given the compression, as Mike said, it's leaning towards B.

Thanks,

Bill

Reply to
William Oliveri

Interesting invoices and they do say a lot Bill.

Sometimes problems happen because of work done in the past so it is good to know what was done to give a better guess.

He paid $440 US for a 'complete' valve job, yet you find issues with seals and valves. Has the engine been overheated since the valve job? It 'sure' sounds like it to me...

That engine invoice looks like it 'could/should' be for a re and re engine with things like new rings and bearings as needed using any block made from 1974 to 1983 so I would expect a cast number to be within those dates.

An R&R normally means new parts as needed and the list seems very inclusive and normal for a 'used' R&R engine.

Too bad you got the 'light' block cast one, I have been told the older one was stronger for some reason. I was at a Jeep machine shop today to get my frame fixed and have to go back tomorrow. I will ask him the difference, I meant to but forgot.

I did ask on the price for a head job and with new valve guides and seals and a shave if needed it is $300.00 Canadian now.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

William Oliveri wrote:

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Mike Romain

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Roy J

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