Hello everyone, I have a question about my 89 Wrangler. I was going to buy a tow bar for the front bumper, but was told by the trailer hitch place that washington state requires towing brakes, etc for anything over 3000 lbs. I'm in the middle of moving, and can't seem to locate my jeep documents. Does anyone know the curb weight of a 89 wrangler? Thanks
I towed my Wrangler from Redmond, WA to Fort Collins, CO, four wheels on the ground, without towing brakes. I hit speeds of 75 mph going across Idaho and Wyoming. This was in 1998. It is definitely more than 3000 lb, especially after you put a bunch of your belongings in it. Make sure that the towed vehicle has a good steering stabilizer, put the transfer case in neutral, unlock the steering wheel, get a set of magnetic trailer lights from U-Haul, install a heavy duty signal flasher, don't forget safety chains, and you should be good to go.
I don't believe that story about Washington State law and trailer brakes, but I could be wrong. Ask a state trooper or check the state web site for better information.
I flat tow my CJ behind my Class C RV. Most states now require brakes on the towed vehicle. I don't use them. I take the legal chance. Am I right? no, but the system is about 3 grand for the set-up or the alternative is to buy or rent a tow dollie. I don't have anywhere to keep a tow dollie so I take my chances. That being said I drive very carefully and allow PLENTY of room to stop. The rules are posted on many RV sites if you want the info state by state. If I remember Good Sam's RV club has links to this info. There is also an RV NG that might give you a link for state by state info. As far as how you tow I suggest you get Currie tow shackles (not trying to sell for Currie). The tow shackles put your front springs into the equation. This allows for a softer connection between the tow vehicle and the jeep. Currie does a pretty good job explaining it on their website. Again I'm not trying to sell their stuff but I like them. They really make towing the CJ much more comfortable than pulling from the bumper. Remember, you can't back up when flat towing and you should make sure the towbar is as level as possible for safety. You should also remove your rear driveshaft to prevent output bearing problems on your transfer case. Rich Harris :1986 CJ7, Detroits F/R, 4:10's, 33"BFGMT's, Mopar F/I, 4.0L head, Rubicon Express 2.5" Wrangler springs, Procomp MX6 Shocks, and a bunch more fun stuff.
"RiverRunner" wrote in message news:5eec214d0b540@uwe...
You should change that to read, "You can back up, about one foot, before something bad happens." I have sometimes found that one foot to be useful. ;^)
If you look at the design and shape of the transfer case, plus the location of the level plug, I think you can assure yourself that the fluid won't come out. I wouldn't bother removing the drive shaft anyway, as that is only needed for CJs. The Wranglers were all designed to be flat towed. Just make absolutely sure that the transfer case is in neutral, and that the transmission is in gear, or park if it is an automatic. That way the transfer case will lubricate itself, and the transmission will be locked to the engine, so it won't need it. Do not put the transmission in neutral, unless you want to have to rebuild it. I have towed my Wrangler thousands of miles this way.
You have that silly vacuum front axle disconnect, so you don't really need to remove the front drive shaft. If you crawl under the vehicle, you should be able to verify, that the front drive shaft turns freely with the transfer case in either 2wd or neutral.
These guys
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make a decent tow bar, that has theadvantage of coming apart for storage.http://www.tomken.com/detail.php?id=141 It fits on brackets that you canbolt to your Wrangler bumper, or special spring shackles. The used to callit their "emergency tow bar", and it came with a handy storage bag. Ibought one somewhere in the Redmond/Kirkland area, but damned if I canremember the name now. "Eastside Four Wheel Drive"? Try the four wheeldrive shops, not the trailer shops. Earle
If it's a '97 or newer, the transfer case will not leak if the driveshaft is removed. To flat tow, shift the t-case into neutral and shift the transmission into either Park or a forward gear. This keeps everything lubed as it needs to be
Not with the transfer case in neutral! The way I do it--Start up the engine, put the transfer case in neutral, then put the transmission in gear. Let out the clutch, and nothing happens. You are ready to be towed. Leave the key in the slot, but turn it so all the electrics go off, but the steering wheel turns freely. Don't worry, unless your front end is completely worn out, the wheels will follow your tow vehicle.
Explanation of why this works. The transmission will burn out, if its output shaft is driven for any length of time, with the transmission in neutral. This is because the countershaft, which is engine driven, is what lubricates everything inside the transmission. It sits in the oil at the bottom of the transmission, and flings it all over, as soon as you start up the engine. Without this happening, you need to have the transmission in gear, so that nothing will turn. The transfer case, on the other hand, receives lubrication whenever the rear output shaft is turning.
Also, be sure the parking brake is off. seems obvious but some folks forget. Also, Do not try to back up with the vehicle hooked to the tow vehicle. this may cause harm to everything.
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