XJ Reliability? Asking the pros!

FWIW, I've got a 93 ZJ with the I6 so just speaking to the engine and transmision (which IIRC the models share in common)

115k isn't much for the I6. The timing chain has at leat 200k on it. Apart from the belts/hoses/rubberfiddlybits there isn't much.

I'd bet that rattle is a cracked exhaust manifold. That's very common. Mine cracked at about 100k and I stuck a Banks header on.

The transmission is also bulletproof (if the original owner actually changed fluid) The most you have to do is do a filter and ATF change. Possibly adjust the bands, and that's it.

Transfer case is another issue. I'd be checking the fluid level to make sure it wasn't ran dry. The chain in there can stretch.

It's probably due for a check of the track arms, stablizer bushings, steering joints and similar. I just finished replacing the inner right drag link end. Steering stablizer as well...

You can see the repairs I've had to make on my site. Those are about it.

I vote that you buy it! Just make sure you have no overheating problems and that the 4x4 works well. Of course make sure that it has been in no major accidents. ;-)

JMHO later, dave AKA vwdoc1 '88 XJ 4.0 auto 4x4

J> Hi everybody--

I have 2, and 88 and an 87 one with 315K km and the other with 285K km. The second one's engine runs well but is tired, the 1st ones is strong still and only uses one liter of oil between changes.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail >

Thanks for your reviews and advice, fellas -- we'll see how far he bends on the price! MN vehicle transplanted to CA....

Jon

Mike Roma> I have 2, and 88 and an 87 one with 315K km and the other with 285K km.

Hold on, up north they use lots of salt Cherokee's do rust easier than a lot of cars. check up undernieth for rust... if there's none look harder, if you still don't see any check up INSIDE the rear most leaf spring "bucket" above the spring shackle, and then check (with flashlight) behind the rear bumper between the gas tank and look at the floor sheet metal above the tank and the gas tank's metal retaining straps. A Canadian or Northern US Cherokee should be immediately suspect no matter what age... even a 2001.

Rust shouldn't be a deal breaker especially on a truck that probably doesn't cost more than a grand or three but you should know what you're getting. I've seen relatively new XJ's that had rust through in these areas.

Also check under the driver's side floormat.

"Sim>> Thanks for your reviews and advice, fellas -- we'll see how far he

yeah if possible. The rubber backed carpet is a great sound deadener and moisture trapper.

I'll follow up with another one. :-)

I just bought a '99 XJ with 142k miles on it. I think it's pretty solid mechanically, and there's minimal rust (although more than I'd initially thought...). I'm not going to be going crazy off-road with it; it's for getting to the slopes, camping, and hauling the dogs (all things my MINI's not necessarily the best choice for).

The clutch, throw-out bearing, master and slave cylinders, front brakes and rear drums are all new. I'm pretty sure it needs shocks. What other components should I start getting ready to replace? Suspension bushings, steering stabilizer, that kind of thing?

This is my 6th Cherokee since '92, or so (and I've gone about 3 years without one). I'm comfortable with them, but I've never been much for changing things *before* they become a problem... ;-)

I assume it's the same as the TJs in one regard: crappy plastic radiator. That's one more thing I think you unfortunately should plan on if it hasn't been replaced (probably has in one of that vintage). Of course if you're a mechanic that may fall under "minor things"-not for me, who took all weekend to do it :)

Matt

It's not (yet) leaking, so I'll probably leave it unless I have some overheating issues. Both my '90 and '93 XJs had problems with overheating. I put a 3-core radiator in the '93 and it never ran hot again. I'll definitely keep that in mind for this one, tho! :-)