XJ T-Case Drop Kit

Yes.

That stud will come out, but it is a bear to get out from what I have heard.

I saw a post where the gent used a 'stud extractor'. Something like one of those wrenches that fits a bunch of sizes by getting smaller as you tighten it.

A plumbers pipe wrench acts like that too, it gets smaller as you pull harder and likely would do the job.

I would start using a good penetrating oil on it a few days before trying to do the job.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

'98 XJ Classic wrote:

Another technique is a double nut where two hex nuts are placed on the stud, tightened agaisnt each other and then a wrench is placed on the nut closest to the frame to turn them and extract the stud. As Mike said, use penetrating oil well before the operation is tried. Good luck!

Norm

The stud is not welded but can be a real pain. I tried double nutting, I tried 'warmth', I tried the stud remover (the uniframe will bend before the stud breaks), I tried welding the nut to the stud and using the impact. I ended up cutting it off flush... drilling and tapping. My suggestion, use square tube for the drop. Put a nut inside the tube on the stud and bolt the crossmember to the tube. Use a long bolt on the opposite end into the frame.

-Brian

Great, thanks for the info. I planned on double nutting it and putting some heat on it. Worst case I can drill it out and re-tap it. I just wanted to make sure that there was something to tap into, (worst case)

-jeff

I made the drop using 1"x2"tube. I think I might take your suggestion and leave the stud in. I will make the tube harder to mount but might save some aggreviation in the long wrong. My Jeep spent the first 5 years of its life being abused on the salty roads of central Michigan. I basically have had to cut every bit of the rear suspension out just to add new leaf springs.

Did you use the rectangle tube as well to drop the t-case??

Thanks again for the advice.

jeff

I wish I had... mine came with a lift kit and was 'just sitting there'. If I were fabricating as you are, I would have taken the easy route but it didn't occur to me until the stud was damaged and too late to reuse.

Drop the crossmember and put the nut back on the stud. Cut the stud off leaving enough thread to accommodate the thickness of the tube and restore the thread by removing the nut slowly. Install the tube and line it up with the longer bolt on the other side. Once the stud side is tight, remove the longer bolt, install the crossmember with a shot bolt going up through. This is where you will thank yourself for using 1x2" tube because you will only be able to use and open end wrench to hold the nut.

Rinse and repeat.

-Brian

-Brian

Well, thanks to the great advice of everyone on the group. I succesfully installed my t-case drop. I only broke one bolt. After drilling and tapping it it only took about an hour to finish.

I'll send some pictures of the final product if there is anyone that is curious how it turned out.

-Jeff

I'll place that link on my page if you don't mind.... don't laugh I'm still working on it as I get time. (I have a lot to do yet and some of the page links don't work ...... )

Just a sugestion, . If you are lucky enough to own a lathe, or know some one with one, why not take a piece of bar stock, drill and tap one end to screw on the stud and turn and thread the other end? seems easier to let sleeping studs lie...

Mike

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