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YJ body mount removal

I must first say a big public thanks to Bill Hughs (III). I am well on my way to my own sync ring job with his help. She is a '93 Jeep YJ, 2.5 L with an AX-5.

This new post concerns the removal and replacement of rusted and decayed body mounts. There is only one way I can ponder to get these creatures off. That is my jacking the body and therefore gently prying them out as I use a Johnny bar with a 1/2 ratchet with a 5/8th socket.

It bothers me to know how the body mount bolts were originally anchored? If this was with a tapped internal plate and not a nut, welded inside of the chassis, we speak of trouble. This means I would have to do what my father did years ago on an old Chevy Nova. He cut through the chassis and installed a heavy replacement bolts/nuts with flats on the cab base.

Just as a point of reference, a new skid plate brace must be put in place. This was due to chassis corrosion and what I would refer to as heat/metal damage (not by me) but the garage that removed a stubborn skid plate. Beware the use of too much heat, IMHO.

If anymore has had to do this crazy stunt, I am the guy with the pointed hat. That does not infer I am a wizard.

Fabe CBS, Newfoundland Canada

Reply to
fabian_hartery
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Hi Fabe, Many times I have cut off then blown the bolt out, sometime they don't even need a thread chaser using an Oxy-Acetylene cutting torch. God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O mailto: snipped-for-privacy@aol.com

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"fabian snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.ca" wrote:>

Reply to
L.W.(Bill) Hughes III

don't be shy to call it Conception Bay South cheers from a transplanted Newfie now livin' in British Columbia

Reply to
DeerSkull

There was an article in a recent JP magazine, I think, about exactly this problem, and the fix.

Have you tried backing them out after soaking them in PB Blaster for a week? Or are they simply rusted beyond recognition?

Reply to
Matt Macchiarolo

I feel for you. I am also in the rust belt....

When I tried to remove my body, only one bolt came out. The rest either spun the internal nut or snapped off.

Folks have recommended drilling a hole above or beside each mount so you can spray each with a good penetrating oil. Liquid Wrench is ok or I like the home hardware kp 53 stuff. I recommend at least a week of twice or more daily applications before starting.

I used the roll bar and a big tree with a hand cable winch (come-a-long) to take the weight off. The forward/back center of gravity for the tub is right where the driver sits, just in front of the roll bar cross over.

When I lifted the tub off via the winch, the tailgate fell off, the floor fell out, the front cowl fell off and I was left with a roll bar and two back fenders hanging from the tree.... I tossed it in the trash and bought a fiberglass tub from a gent in Kingston Ontario. I love it! No more rust!

Now if I can just find a new frame for the next rebuild stage....

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail >
Reply to
Mike Romain

Gawd... Mike. Indeed, this is like the Wilde Coyote and the Roadrunner Show. Sorta like chasing for work in Newfoundland.

Indeed, the bolts are just rotating and quite right, I snapped one off. I seem oriented to block up an axle stand with wood and use a piece of

2x4 to distribute the lifting load. To do otherwise would possibly pearce the cab. I really worry about what I have left to bolt back into (?). My new mounts came from Quadratec. Hey guys (Quadratec)... how about some free parts for "dat plug"?

Good points from all. The tub is fairly solid because when I got her new, I went at it with a solid undercoating of a rubberized asphalt spray. The cab rusted from the inside out, mainly at the floor pans. Funny, I didn't order the "water leaks option". She was like it new. The dealer never addressed this matter to my satisfaction :>/

As for the AX-5, you eventually need a hydraulic ram. I asked the farmer down the road about his goat and a bucket of water. He was not impressed about my future application. With measured thou clearances for reseating, I will be off to a trannie shop with only the counter and main shafts remaining on the intermediate plate. You can't say I have not reduced the shop time, I hope.

All the best to all and thanks for your thoughtfulness.

Fabe

Reply to
fabian_hartery

While you have it apart Herculiner the interior metal. There are shops that will do it for you and others that sell the materials.

Dupli-Color supplies it to anyone who sells auto-parts for about $50 (US) a gallon or a kit which also includes a spray can for hard to reach areas, a roller and tray, and a brush for about $10 (US) more.

If you have an air compressor you can buy a spray applicator

They have a good instructional video on-line at: Note: requires ActiveX to run

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Reply to
billy ray

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