zj broken key lock

Have you looked at the ignition switch? I've had to do twice on my SE. Not too bad to do, just hard to get to the components. The ignition switch is on top of the steering column. under the dash. There are two nuts that hold it to the column. You will have to remove some covers, etc. to get to it, and will have to lower the column a bit ( a few bits and pieces hold this in place).

The switch itself is mechanically actuated by a metal shaft when the key is turned. Take a piece of tape, and tape this metal shaft to the column before you remove the old switch. If it falls out, it can be a pain to reposition it relative to the key cylinder

Once you've got the tape in place, remove the two plastic wire collections that come out of the switch. On my jeep, they kind of overlap, but just press the tabs and they should come out. You can then unbolt the old switch and remove. Take a look at the old switch. You will see a hole in it that the end of the metal shaft you taped to the column goes into. Be sure the new switch is set to the same position.

Install in reverse order, and you're done. Good luck.

S.

Curtis wrote:

Curtis proclaimed:

If you are sure that it is the key switch, get a good set of torz bits and replace it. You'll need a long handle torx to get the shroud off the steering wheel, then remove the old switch and put in the new. The time consumption will be getting the shroud off, then once you've got the new switch, getting the flag lined up. Haven't seen the after market manuals, the Factory Service Manual gives the tips on the positions you need to set the switch to in order to get the old one out and the new one in. Time consuming but not difficult, or get a dealer to do it, but be prepared for a labor charge.

Sure it is the switch? There is a chain of sensors from the transmission [auto], clutch [manual], thru the switch that inhibit start. Easy to jumper the start relay to find out.

The shaft would move only a little, just enough to move the switch to different positions. Travel would only be about 1/2 an inch. If the shaft bends rather than moves, the ignition switch could have broken, preventing the shaft from moving. This is what happened to my SE. The switch had melted and collapsed internally, and when I took it off it fell to bits. Put the key to the "On" position, and try manually moving the shaft and see if you can feel the switch change positions.

If it is the the key cylinder, I've not done this job, but had one replaced by a locksmith on another vehicle. He came out to me, and fixed it in the parking lot of my office. He was done pretty quickly, and I recall that it wasn't terribly expensive, something like 80 bucks.

Good luck.

Curtis wrote:

Thanks for the tips guys - made it home with the screwdriver starting method. The switch just feels off to me so I'm going to take a look at it tonight - but yeah it could be a sensor as well - see about 1 in 10 starts I had to put it in neutral (auto) to start, so possibly a relay.

Sure it is the switch? There is a chain of sensors from the

L> Curtis proclaimed:

If you had too shift to N to start then your start/nuetral safety switch is failing. Same thing happened on my 93 XJ. Look here for info on rebuilding it:

Snow...

Oh and it still costs about $300 to buy a new one from the stealer...

Curtis wrote:

Not that I reccomend this or even suggest it be done other then in an emergency situation to get you home when your stuck in the middle of nowhere, but for trouble shooting procedures you can jumper the connection on the safety switch harness and see if it starts. Just be warned that while the connector is in this configuration the vehicle can start in any gear... even reverse. Every time I took my XJ to the shop I had to remind the guys that it would start in gear.... :)

Snow...

Curtis wrote:

Get a cheap voltmeter and a friend, or some really long spade leads.

Pull the starter relay from the relay box. It should be labelled, if not, yell and will ident.

When you turn the ignition key on, you should see a good ground on pin

86 of the starter relay. If you don't, start backing up the food chain thru the transmission park/start relay to the ignition switch.

There is a mechanical flag inside your ignition switch assembly that is connected to the transmission/park neutral, so if it feels funny and you can get it started by wiggling, it might be warn. If the assembly down thru the transmission is broken, personally I'd be tempted to jumper the park/neutral switch.

The new ignition switch asssembly uses your old lock cylinder, so if the lock cylinder is bad, you'd need new keys.

If you pick up a spare relay, you can take the top off and just jumper pin 30 [from the battery] to pin 87 [NOT 87A !] which will put 12 volts down to the starter solenoid assembly as you stuff that butchered relay temporarily into the relay socket to get a start.

Snow proclaimed:

Removed the ignition switch and key cylinder - turns out a small piece of metal has broken off at then end of of key cylinder - where it meets the ignition switch. I think that accounts for the empty feeling when turning the key...

Looks like I'm getting a set of new keys.....

Better tend to that transmission switch as well...thanks for all the info.

L> Get a cheap voltmeter and a friend, or some really long spade leads. >

Your corner locksmith can re-key a new cylinder to your old key.

Well.... maybe I should rephrase that....

A professional full service locksmith (not the guy at Home Depot or Lowes) can re-key a new cylinder to your old key.

Parts guys at a local dealer should be able to point you to such a locksmith and probably know rough cost, as in whether it is cheaper to have this done or just get new keys.

Get some white lithium for when you put it all back together...

billy ray proclaimed:

Well didn't take the cheapest route but we are up and running - I got a new ignition switch and cylinder from a dealer and they set the tumbler for my existing keys...oh yeah and I got some free grease...;)

The new cylinder has a different locking mechanism than my old one - not sure if the two would be compatible...

thanks for all the info - If anyone is ever stuck in the same situation a T20 tamper proof torx bit (long) will pretty much remove all the pieces...

curtis

L> Parts guys at a local dealer should be able to point you to such a