timing belt paranoia

I have a 98 Kia sephia with about 78K miles on it. Never had the timing belt changed, but I'm getting paranoid and will get it replaced soon. I've called around to local mechanics, and two of them asked if I was also looking to get the water pump replaced, which would effectively double the repair bill. Is that normal to get a whole set of parts changed at the same time, or can I survive with just a timing belt change? Any feedback would be great. Thanks.

Reply to
toto.nguyen
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This was posted about a week ago. =========================== Subject: Snapped Timing Belt! 2002 Kia Rio (sob) Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2005 14:24:09 GMT From: "Ron" Organization: Road Runner High Speed Online

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Newsgroups: alt.autos.kia

Well, I have only myself to blame, apparently, the timing belt let go (factory belt) on my 2002 Kia Rio 4 door 1.5 liter engine. In retrospect I

could hear the ping/ting of valves before the engine stalled. Clicked the engine with the starter and the engine turns like it's seized.

Should I just replace the head or could the valves cracked the piston crowns? I think this is an interference engine. I had a 1988 Mitsubishi Mirage where I replaced it's factory timing belt around 150k and the belt was in pretty good shape, no weathering, cracks, etc. This baby has 93,000

miles. The dealer did warn me when I got some warranty work done on the rear wheel bearings. two months ago.Looking at my service history in the computer, he said, Ron, if you don't do anything else aside from changing your oil, make sure you change out your timing belt. The wife was adamant against spending the Cash. (tsk tsk)...

So what are you war stories on timing belts and what you did to get going

again???? (and $ paid)

Ron in FL.

Reply to
Roadraging

Get them done together. Will save you a headache. We recently had our timing belt changed on our 02 Spectra and the *very next day* our water pump decided to go out. Ended up having to go back into the shop anyway.

Reply to
CopprTop21

It always a good idea to get as much done while it's in a shop. I would also replace the belt tensioner and anything else related to this type of repair. It's the labor that adds up quickly. And you don't want to have to redo something thats been done because of a $40 part when the labor is running $65 an hour or even more.

Reply to
Roadraging

here is my reply to a prior timing belt question

if you need the belt, contact this guy--

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sells the belt, the roller bearings and tensioner, gaskets and a waterpump for under $100($93 for all of it to be exact). When you have it open,change the water pump too. no sense putting stress on the old pump shaft,only to have the pump bearingsgo six months later. the labor is the same.2000 Sportage at 60k, cost $750 with me providing the belt kit. Keep inmind the labor in New York is $90 an hour, Plus wechanged the fuel filter, plugs, wires and some hoses,and all the belts,and front wheel bearings while it was up on the lift. that's not really abig sum over the scheme of things, spreadover 5 years of use. $150 a year for maintenance.also replace the tiny spring that holds the tensioner called the timingbelt tension spring, cost $2.38 but it's important. I don't see why themechanic is hitting you for more labor to change the water pump. He has toremove it and the belts and pulleys to get to the timing belt anyway. Youhave to dump the anti freeze, that's about all. I would get an estimatefrom another mechanic. The Kia is pretty straight forward and well laidout to work on. Try changing the belt an a Chysler product, you need anarm with two wrists and three elbows.

Reply to
helix

I probably originated the "hey, my timing belt broke" post. Well, guess what; I looked at the car just today, through the spark plug holes and removed the top section's bolts to the timing belt. The timing belt looks all intact! Three of my spark plugs are mashed flat/damaged, chipping the porcelin insulation, too! I've got 93,000 miles on it as original owner and I'm bringing this puppy back to KIA since I've got 7,000 miles remaining on the original factory powertrain warranty!

I wonder what gave? The engine sounded like old glass Coca-Cola bottles rolling on the sidewalk/concrete. Amost like that and slight pinging for a couple of seconds; the engine stalled and I put in the clutch. The noise was subtle with my widows up... This is getting strange. Cylinders #2, 3, and 4 have the mashed flat spark plug tips!

Ron

Subject: Snapped Timing Belt! 2002 Kia Rio (sob) Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2005 14:24:09 GMT From: "Ron" Organization: Road Runner High Speed Online

formatting link
Newsgroups: alt.autos.kia

Well, I have only myself to blame, apparently, the timing belt let go (factory belt) on my 2002 Kia Rio 4 door 1.5 liter engine. In retrospect I

could hear the ping/ting of valves before the engine stalled. Clicked the engine with the starter and the engine turns like it's seized.

Should I just replace the head or could the valves cracked the piston crowns? I think this is an interference engine. I had a 1988 Mitsubishi Mirage where I replaced it's factory timing belt around 150k and the belt was in pretty good shape, no weathering, cracks, etc. This baby has 93,000

miles. The dealer did warn me when I got some warranty work done on the rear wheel bearings. two months ago.Looking at my service history in the computer, he said, Ron, if you don't do anything else aside from changing your oil, make sure you change out your timing belt. The wife was adamant against spending the Cash. (tsk tsk)...

So what are you war stories on timing belts and what you did to get going

again???? (and $ paid)

Reply to
news

you may have caught it in time. I'm changing mine tomorrow, I was waiting for the new water pump to arrive from the wholesaler in arizona that I mentioned in prior posts. I'm changing the water pump, fuel filter, and tensioner rollers all at the same time. Parts only cost $93. There is a tiny sprint located between the tensioner rollers, costs $2.15 from Kia, be sure you change that, the tension is critical I've been told. BTW I saw a brochure on the Kia parts counter, recommending that you change the timing belt EVERY 40,000 miles now. Are they haveing a belt failure problem they aren't telling us about?

Reply to
helix

Given the fact that those Rio engines get very hot very fast (I'm in Canada, in -45c winter temperatures I still never get cold in that car, it's warm after 4 minutes) if that belt goes, and cooling therefore is impaired, that engine could overheat and blow real fast

I've blown a sunfire before, rental, rental agency rented me the vehicle without coolant... Let's just say that it was a fun drive

Reply to
Karell Ste-Marie

I know this is almost two months too late, but the talk of timing belts always makes me queasy.

The reason mechanics suggest replacing a water pump at the same time as a timing belt is because, at least most of the time, the water pump serves as the primary tensioner for the belt. This means that they virtually have the water pump in their hands when they replace the belt, and it is NO problem (and virtually no extra expense, except for the cost of the pump itself) to replace it.

Since water pumps are notorious for going bad at the wrong time, it is almost always a prudent move. In fact, in at least a couple of the cars where I had to have timing belts replaced, the belt cost more than the pump did.

While I also hate the expense of replacing a timing belt (it is usually a complex and expensive job, especially if you have a V6 and/or dual overhead cams), it is the life flow of the engine, and should be kept working well. Most manufacturers seem to have a pretty good handle on how much stress their engines place on the belt, and set the maintenance schedule accordingly, whether they recommend it at 60,000 or 105,000 miles.

Finally remember that if you own a Kia, where the warranty is longer than the timing belt replacement interval schedule, you MUST change it at or before the recommended interval to keep the 100,000 mile warranty intact. The dealer has reminded me of that.

Tom Wenndt

Reply to
Rev. Tom Wenndt

At EXACTLY 996,852 miles my belt let go!

As I saw the odometer creaping toward that magical 100,000, what you said started to eat at me. Then POW. I was coasting with no power over a bridge about half a block from my house after grocery shopping (VERY lucky 'Timing"..sorry).

I managed to just make it into my driveway (my ass was still on the sidewalk, but close enough for jazz)!

The mechanic freaked a little when I called him and told him what it was. EXACTLY what it was. Natch he tried to hose me for a few more goodies, but as I had the lock to be off the gas when it happened.

IF YOU FEEL A SUDDEN LOSS OF POWER IN A SPORTAGE WITH OVER 90,000 MILES ON IT DO NOT HIT THE GAS!!

The only thing between me and an expensive valve replacement was that I was off the gass and they weren't damaged.

The Doctor

P.S. I'm told the "NEW" Sportages have the same problems as the old ones RIGHT DOWN TO THE SPARK PLUG REPLACEMENT ODYSSEY!

Reply to
Dr. Vandell

A follow-up: I finally had the water pump and timing belt changed yesterday. I think I got lucky because the mechanic also noticed that the alternator belt was dry, cracking, and actually frayed in one spot. All of it cost $475, which I think is a bargain compared to what the dealer wanted for the 60K maintenance job.

Feeling better: hoping for a mild CT winter, but getting the ice scraper ready anyway.

Reply to
toto.nguyen

Yes, that price is what my garage charges as well - a good deal.

It makes sense to replace both of those items when you replace the timing belt. Obviously, the outer serpentine belts need to be removed to get to the inner timing belt. And the water pump usually serves as the tensioner for the timing belt, so the mechanic literally has it in his hands. For some strange reason, the water pumps I have replaced have often ended up costing less than the timing belt (not the labor - just the stupid part).

The only other item that needs serviced at 60,000 is spark plugs. A

4-cylinder engine is no problem, as they are all up top and in front. Same for the front 3 of a V-6. But those back three can be a REAL problem, and usually require a mechanic to get around (or remove) the stuff necessary to get to them.

Tom Wenndt

Reply to
Rev. Tom Wenndt

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