Just about ready to jig the diff to rotate it, to save a lot of measurement (more) work does anyone know how the kingpins are oriented on a 101 ? Are they parallel to the front of the diff and each other (easy to jig) or is the camber and castor set there ? Thanks for any input.
Steve
In message , steve Taylor writes
I'm willing to be corrected but I believe the castor (and camber) are set when the swivels are welded on ... so the latter of your options ...
Its normal for the king pins to be inclined so that a line taken along their axis would hit the ground at the centre line of the tyre. steve the grease
Is it though? Would you get the castor effect then? Steve may no longer be able to perform J turns when doing escape and evade scenarios at our next play day.
Lee D
By the way I was kidding about the E&E!
On or around Fri, 13 Oct 2006 12:00:55 +0100, "Lee_D" enlightened us thusly:
there are 2 angles, castor and camber. Castor angle is the one that, when looking from the side of the vehicle, the bottom of the kingpin is nearer the front of the vehicle than the top, so that a line projected down to the ground through the kingpin hits the ground in front of a vertical through the front wheel. This distance is known as trail and is the one that makes it self-centre when going forwards.
camber is the one that, when looking from ahead of the vehicle, the bottom of the kingpin is further from the centerline of the vehicle than the top, so that a line projected down to the ground through the kingpin hits the ground about in the middle of the tyre. This is so that the wheel doesn't move backwards and forwards unduly when it's turned.
Almost Austin... what you've described is King Pin Inclination. Camber is the angle of the actual wheel relative to vertical when in the straight ahead position.
To be fair, the camber is set by the relative position of the hub to the kinpin and the inclination of the kingpin itself. Moving the position of the top of the bottom of the kingpin would result in a change to the camber, assuming the hub is fixed to the kingpin, which it is on the 101.
Incidentally, the 101 doesn't have a kingpin, in the strict sense, it has two bearings instead. In fact, most vehicles these days don't have kingpins any more. They either have two bearings or balljoints, top and bottom, the line between the two representing what used to be the kingpin (common in 4wd vehicles); or, as in a large percentage of FWD and RWD vehicles, they don't even have two joints, rather one lower joint and MacPherson Struts. In vehicles which have two joints or bearings, it is correctly referred to as the Kingpin Axis
That's what I mean. The camber is 1 deg and the castor is 1.5, which COULD be on the hub, and not the kingpin axis.
That explains why I wasn't happy when I wrote it - there not being a "King" pin.
Anyway, diff is back from being shot blasted, and is looking incredibly "new", before the real work starts.
Getting the bearings off the bits took a 25 ton puller !
Steve
steve Taylor uttered summat worrerz funny about:
Took mine to a local indianeer wot did it. The bearings in the nose cone a did myself with a little help from a friend. Thudump.
All sounds like you might just pull it off pre unofficial.... then again have you got to bleed the brakes or did you leave the hubs dangling?
Lee D
MIGHT well make it. Bleeding the brakes is easy with a vacuum bleeder. Honest.
Steve
I re-route the brake pipes on landrovers, to move the bleed nipple to the other wheel cylinder, at the top. Makes it much easier to bleed. Bleeding the backs on a 101 is made a lot easier by releasing the load valve and opening it fully.
Alex
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