burrt has a gearbox fault on 2nd gear. Going up the box is fine, coming down it is impossible to select.
Towed a trailer to Towcester, and was able to get 2nd coming down the box a fair bit of the time.
Took him out today without the trailer and guess what... unable to get
2nd coming down again......
Have thought about a 4 speed auto to replace it, but took the trailer out with a 4 speed auto rangie today, and the gearbox was forever hunting, which kind of put me off. With the LT95 in burrt I didn't have to make many gearchanges at all.
The place where we had the trailer serviced also said that his TD5 Disco kept hunting while towing it.
Trailer is the GLASS exhibiton unit, about 2 tonnes in weight and slab fronted.
I'm assuming that the 2nd gear synchro is baulking - I'd try a change of oil in the gearbox. I'm sure someone with experience of LT95's in UK conditions will be along shortly to make a suggestion of the best lubricant to use.
On or around Mon, 10 Apr 2006 20:40:27 +0100, Simon Isaacs enlightened us thusly:
IME, you get used to "playing" the autobox after a while. and see also Badgers recent post about altering the lockup point for the torque converter.
You can stop it hunting between 3 and 4 by locking it down to 3 until your road or speed lets it stay in 4 reliably.
Or, of course, you can disconnect the kickdown cable and use it as a clutchless manual - note, I imagine if you do this wrong (i.e. let it sit in
4th at 20 mph under load) it'll overheat. I did try it once and it works quite well - it shifts up at minimum revs if pout into D and will hold any of the lower gears on the shifter, or go into them if the roadspeed is low enough. If you have a brainfade and shift into "1" at 45 nothing will happen, it'll not downshift to 1 'til the speed drops to about 30. Talking RR 3.54 axles, here, so with 101 axle ratios it'll all happen at lower speeds, including the TC lockup.
Given a reasonable amount of nouse on the part of the operator, I can't see this can cause any longterm harm. However, it does prevent you from doing the "most fun" bit of an autobox motor - pootling in top at about 45, and flooring it so that it jumps straight down to second and takes off with mucho impressive engine noise.
Note: If any of you with ZF4 boxes play at "clutchless manual" mode by disconnecting the kickdown cable and the box subsequently breaks, don't blame me. It didn't break mine, but I decided I didn't like it and went back to "normal" mode.
Don't discount the Torqueflight 727 auto box. I think that they would be better suited to 101s than the ZFs, are stronger and simpler as well. With any autobox however you need to make sure the engine is up to it as well, they will all sap a little more power.
Not suprising, depends on what, where and how you tow - expect to use the shift lever to manually select your gear unless you know the vehicle shift patterns well enough to avoid unexpected changes.
If you do fit an Auto then I'd suggest trying to seek one out which has a viscous coupling instead of diff lock in the transfer box. I think such a thing exists though I'm not sure in which model. Our 1990 Rangie TD had viscous lock but that was a manual. It's one less lever to have to faff around with to make fit.
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