The 110 needs a new pair of rear dampers and probably a nearside rear spring as it is listing. Is it necessary to replace both springs?
Also there is some play in the axle location, power on-off steering effect has become more than noticeable. Is there a kit of all the parts for bushing the radius arms and A frame to the top of the diff? Any known difficulties?
AJH
Would you buy half a pair of shoes?
You can just replace one spring but it's not advisable as you would be lucky to end up with a level vehicle.
'A' frame bushes can be replaced quite easily but the bolts may be a bit awkward to remove due to corrosion. Most likely is wear in the ball joint over the axle and the bushes at the front of the trailing arms, also check the brackets welded to the axle casing for these, they can rust to the point of being dangerous and break off.
Martin
On or around Sun, 4 Feb 2007 12:46:45 -0000, "Oily" enlightened us thusly:
ah, now that's a point. I was thinking this morning that rather than trying to fit the transit body complete to the 110 chassis, it might be easier to fit the 110 suspension and running gear to the transit body. I had, however, failed to think of the A-frame.
On the chassis of the 110, there are 4 spring mounts and 4 radius arm mounts, a panhard rod mount and I now remember an A frame mount, plus 4 damper mounts which are of lesser import as they don't have so much load on them.
I reckon there might be some mileage in removing the said mount points from the LR chassis and welding them onto the transit in suitable places, with reinforcement if necessary.
Advantage of this approach would be a considerable weight saving, as using the transit body and the LR chassis effectively makes a vehicle with 2 chassis, as the transit is more or less a monocoque.
possible disadvantages are that it might prove difficult to attach the mount points sufficiently accurately (although knowing LR, there's apt to be a fair amount of tolerance in the positions :-)) and it might, if I use the LR engine, box and axles as well, mean that it ends up with a Q plate. Need to check the rules.
Do both springs unless you know they were recent and one has become defective. If one has got to the stage of being saggy then the other is likely not far behind. You should really go through all the bushes and check them if steering is affected (use a pry bar and see if they move - they can look perfect visually but be completely knackerd) - panhard rod, front and rear radius arms (both ends) A frame ball joint, shock absorber bushes (particularly the rear top ones) and the A frame to axle bushes (check the mountings here too - it's usually Discoverys and 90's, but theres nothing to say 110's (Sailsbury axle) cant rust too! Be prepared to fit new bolts - if they've been chattering for a while the olts may well have steps worn in them. There's four, no make that five, options for the bushes - "standard", G (OEM), Genuine Parts, Britpart polyurethane or Polybush (inc Ironman etc) - you pays your money......... though I'm not a fan of ploy bushes myself. If were being keen I could add the options up, but your looking at from something like =A320-30 for a set of "standard!" bushes up to =A3120 or so for Polybush Red/Blue/Orange. Rear shocks come with bushes. The new Britpart "Super Gaz" shocks look good - complete with poly bushes and reasonable money.
Richard
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