110 CSW V8 Gearbox replacement

Second gear has gone on the 110 and I've got a reconditioned gearbox ready to replace it. I plan to remove the engine and gearbox as one unit out through the front - radiator and front panel removed beforehand of course - and then do the exchange on the floor before shoving the whole shebang back into the hole in the reverse of removal. Am I likely to encounter any problems (other than the weight) with removing the thing this way?

Thanks, Steve

Reply to
Steve
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On or around Tue, 6 Feb 2007 13:19:21 -0000, "Steve" enlightened us thusly:

not that many. Alternatives with a 110 are remove all the seatbox and floor, then split the 'box and T-box (assuming it's the kind that split) and lift each bit out from inside.

But given a decent lifting rig, it's probably as easy to haul the whole lot out.

check the condition of the exhaust manifold studs before you refit the engine...

's a good opportunity to check all the rad hoses and suchlike and flush the rad.

Reply to
Austin Shackles

Hi Steve, I've got to do exactly the same on my 1986 110 V8 this spring. I intend to remove the cross member (luckily its the bolt in version) and drop the 2 boxes together onto a trolly and wheel them out sideways (lifting the LR a bit if necessary to get clearance). At the same time I'll lift out the engine to fix the manifold studs :-), and get the exhaust welded up. I intend to leave the seat box in place.

You'll need some serious lifting gear (read safe) to lift engine & 2 boxes together.

Andrew

Reply to
Andrew T.

Maybe! But it's going to be *very* heavy. I suspect, though I'm sure by any means, that your going to have to get the engine/greabox assembly at an interesting angle so that the gearbox will go "under" the bulkhead - will there be room to get the engine over the front crossmember without the gearbox hitting the bulkhead? Personaly, I'd take the engine mountings off, lower the engine to get access to the bell housing nuts, take the engine out, take the geabox crossmember out and drop the box onto the floor and drag it out sideways.

Just my 2p

Richard

Reply to
beamendsltd

On or around Tue, 06 Feb 2007 15:07:23 +0000, beamendsltd enlightened us thusly:

it does need to get at a bit of a slant. sling the engine at the back of the block. I've done it with an engine crane in the 0.5T position, to get the required length. The whole thing is not *that* heavy. I lifted the 2 parts of the gearbox out and back in without a crane last time I did it in a

110. engine itself, being a V8, is lighter than it looks. I bet the engine and both boxes are under 500Kg.

yes. provided, of course, you unbolt the gearlever.

It's a bit of a tart to do like that, unless you make up the correct support bracket for the box.

Reply to
Austin Shackles

I think the other guys have it pretty well covered, but just to complete the set of alternatives - I had the classic gearbox output shaft problem, and was changing the V8 engine anyway. So engine out then bellhousing off then I heaved the entire gearbox and transfer box out as one lump from inside the car. It came out through the passenger door OK. I took it to a gearbox specialist to do his thing. He clearly didn't expect it as one lump - I would guess most sane people split the boxes !

Having invented this way of getting it out, I reversed the process to re-assemble. It would have been handy to have a second pair of hands when mating the engine to the gearbox shaft, but otherwise OK.

I have a vague recollection that you had to spring the chassis to remove the cross-member, and so crossed that option off my list. You might also have an issue with getting the lifting point far enough back to balance it. There's a lot of weight in the transfer box.

Other Steve

Reply to
Cheshire Steve

"Austin Shackles" wrote in message news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com...

My thanks to all who replied. I'm under no illusions that it's going to be light but I have the means to hoist a ton if needed. I don't think it's

*that* heavy. ;-)

I think the tricky bit, as Richard said, is going to be getting enough angle to clear the bulkhead/front cross-member.

Steve

Reply to
Steve

On or around 6 Feb 2007 13:58:07 -0800, "Cheshire Steve" enlightened us thusly:

I found with the auto box that it's too long to get out like that. It's possible that a manual would some out OK though as there wasn't much in it.

Reply to
Austin Shackles

My 110 had a removeable cross member and the company that repaired my box (lost reverse) simply took the crossmember out and dropped the gearbox through the bottom. Out/repaired/back in in 6 hours, with new clutch for good measure.

Reply to
Danny

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