1984 RR - value?

I miss my 110, the Jeep Cherokee is rubbish for towing and I can't afford another 110, but a friend has a "B" reg (1984?) RR 3.5V8 carb auto that he has owned for several years that I can probably buy at a reasonable price. But what is a fair price? It's got a genuine 50k miles, sounds totally silent engine. It's good inside with the roof lining intact, a little tailgate rust, Chassis looks fine, not much else that I can see (the sills have those plastic protectors on - how do you check for rust?)... I think he wants around £800, but I don't know what to pay...It's a "base" model - nothing special that I can remember on the tailgate. Nice alloys...clean paint (metallic grey)...

Unless you *really* want it and he prefers to let it rot. *Then* it's worth £800, but only with MOT and in fair mechanical condition [as distinct from 'safe' mechanical condition].

Huw

I phoned my friend, and he definitely wants £800. I'm sorely tempted. He guarantees the mileage, and the tailgate has only a small amount of rust. He says that the headlining has sagged in a few places, but not bad, so I'll be having a closer look.

presumably the sill protectors are for cosmetic purposes and cover the outerside of the sill.So give the sills a squeeze fingers underneath thumb on plastic side type of grip if they are rotting the inner side will also be going if is sounds like cream crackers then it is. Early V8s are not fetching very much on ebay at the moment ( I have to stop watching them I dont need a rangerover ) I reckon Huw has it about right Derek

I dont need a rangerover I dont need a rangerover I dont need a rangerover

I don't like the three-speed auto box that this will have if it's pre-October 85. I know everyone says how strong the box is, but it absorbs vast amounts of power compared with the later ZF 4-speed auto. The ZF also locks out the torque converter at 40-odd mph, which helps fuel economy.

I'd want it to be bodily superb (rear cross-member, sills, inner wings, rear door shuts, etc) and with a new MoT, to pay much over £500 for it.

What's wrong with the 110?

If you're serious about the vehicle, take one off, they're only held on by a couple of bolts.

The other thing to watch out for is the rear body cross member. If this is less than pristine, forget it.

Other places for tinworm are the inner wings, the rear wheel arches and the footwells but the rear body Xmember is the killer.

-- Pete