1989 110 Tdi possible purchase!

The early Td's had a habit of blowing headgaskets warping the heads porous blocks and a number I've been to see had lost the woodruff key on the crankshaft causing mayhem wrecking the timing gear. Theres a white 200TDi there I notice I think I would be keener on that one Derek

They did? The woodruff key problem was (and still is) people not tightening the pulley correctly after a timing belt change. The

200Tdi is bomb proof, the only fault being a tendency to blow the head gasket on the r/h side by No.4 cylinder at around 70 to 100,000 miles. It's no big deal as long as the engine is not allowed to run out of oil when it starts running on its own oil! Take the air filter out. It will likely have some oil on it at the front, but anything more than a bit indicates the head gasket is not happy. Make certain when the timing belt was last changed - it they cannot demonstate when it was done then fit/have fitted an new one. Other than that, it's just the usual checks on any engine - 300,000 miles is not unusual for a 200Tdi. Oh, and if possible, check that the oil has not been over-filled. If the old timing belt is/was contaminated with oil then it's quite likely that the font cover seals will need replacing as well as the belt - this is the result of over filling.

All Tdi 110's are indeed 5-speed.

Richard

Good advice! But mine's done 262,000 now and it hasn't done a head gasket (I shouldn't have said that, should I ?)

Martin.

The frightening part about that was two of them had just been fitted with reconditioned engines as is Kato and I noticed the bottom pulley was not running true and yes I tightened up the bolt about half a turn, shows that not all monkeys are in the zoo.What I should have done was locktite'd the bolt ( none left in the box unfortunately) Kato is running a bit lumpy this morning not using oil or water so I'm suspecting a mucky injector, put some cleaner in and drained the filter I'd better check for a blow rhs ( thats offside Richard ?) just in case Derek

On or around Sat, 19 Aug 2006 11:35:37 GMT, "Derek" enlightened us thusly:

The pulley bolt on the 300 TDi is supposed to be loctited and tightened to the sort of torque you can't readily do. basically, it amounts to "find the biggest socket handle you can and tighten as tight as possible". Unless you're very strong, you won't overtighten it, even with a handle about 3ft long.

|| Good advice! But mine's done 262,000 now and it hasn't done a head || gasket (I shouldn't have said that, should I ?)

Beamends Richard - mail him a price. He's bound to need one in the next couple of weeks now.

|| The pulley bolt on the 300 TDi is supposed to be loctited and || tightened to the sort of torque you can't readily do. basically, it || amounts to "find the biggest socket handle you can and tighten as || tight as possible". Unless you're very strong, you won't || overtighten it, even with a handle about 3ft long.

Make that a 24" breaker bar with a 6ft scaffold pole over it. That's what it took to shift the bolt on my 2.5 n/a, and how I put it back.

I checked the book of words for the TDi 300 80 NM then a further 90% , 80 NM thats roughly 59ft lbs not really unattainable with a good bar wonder what the extra 90% dials in tho? pass me the bananas then please the flywheel to crankshaft looks a ball breaker at 146 NM. Derek

On or around Sat, 19 Aug 2006 14:55:53 GMT, "Derek" enlightened us thusly:

it thought it was 180 degrees. ISTR that I failed to get it to go as far as they said, using a strong 1/2" drive breaker bar with extra tube on it, so total length about 3-4ft. Part of the problem is getting the engine to stay still. 4th gear and handbrake hard on, and even then the whole engine and box moves on the mountings. I got it to the point where with that leverage it wouldn't actually move any more with me hauling on it.

Loosening it is less problem, but has a risk factor if the tools aren't up to it: you need a strong 27mm socket - the ones they sell for shifting diesel injectors are good [1] - and a high-quality breaker bar. line the whole thing up, with the bar horizontal and about 2" above the NHS (left) side chassis rail, and then having disconnected the cut-off on the pump for saftey's sake, turn the key.

Note,it doesn't work having the bar in contact with the rail, the gap lets the engine start turning and the shock is what loosens the bolt.

'course, if ytou have the necessary kit, then you pull the rad and put a sod off air impact gun on it. Probably that's also the best way of getting it tight, but it's not under control unless you have a good enough gun that you know what torque it produces and can translate the torque-plus-angle into plain torque settting. I guess you could have marks on the socket, and having done the 80Nm bit, watch it rotate using the gun.

[1] also excellent for doing landy wheelnuts.

Some selective snipping ...

The idea of specifying a torque plus an additional angle (usually called torque turn) is a very deliberate move to improve joint integrity. Tightness resulting from torquing only is renowned for its variability as a result of thread and other friction. It's not a good move to attempt to translate torque turn data into torque alone.

The initial torque is basically to seat the joint and the additional tightening angle fairly accurately defines the bolt stretch. The bolt stretch translates into a fairly well controlled bolt load. It is the bolt load that is used when the joint is designed to ensure that the joint doesn't fail (open up or slip) under the service conditions in which it is intended to operate.

I love my BSO impact driver (s)! With Kato being a 200Tdi a 30mm socket would be the idea but of course that would mean removing the shroud for access as I dont have any really shallow sockets but to get the shroud off the fan needs to come off as well or as you say pull out the radiator small problem becomes big job fortunately I have an ancient large offset ringkey ( proabably whitworth the markings are not readable ) I had tried the handbrake manouvre but when Kato started creeping forward over my leg I went the other route- Vicky standing on the footbrake which did the job

Derek

Lateral thinking gets you further down the road just hope its the right road

It is RHS (from the drivers seat). Sometimes some soapy water on the last flat bit before the end of the block, i.e. between the No.4 injector recess and the back of the block, can produce some bubbles giving early warning, sometimes accompanied by a ticking noise that sounds very like a tappet - though strangely this is more often evident on the Discovery version of the engine. It desn't make any sense, but must be something to do with the different turbo arangement. New pulley bolts come ready with thread lock on them. It's not a bad idea to apply Loctite to the taper in the pulley as well - hoping to god it's not you that has to get it off next time ;-)

Belts, braces & scaffolding is a good idea when doing this job - new front covers are *stunningly* expensive!

Richard

I made the patent Wokka III tool - a length of 3/8th plate with a hole cut in the middle and 4 holes for the pulley bolts. I stand it on the ground, bolt it to the damper and I can then pull as hard as I like, since I'm actually trying to lift the car. Very effective, it took about half an hour to make (with gas cutter admittedly - no points for prettiniess!). Well worth the bother if you intend doing more than one.

Richard

I've made something for attacking the problem from the other end.... I remove the starter and have a piece of old ring-gear on a handle that can be engaged onto the ring-gear on the flywheel thereby stopping the engine from turning.

People Hi,

About a 1000 Km ago the 200Tdi engine on my 1994 Discovery was overfilled with oil (about 1 mm over the max point of the dipstick)

I was unable to empty the oil and drop the level down so had to drive it. About 150 Km later it started developing a ticking noise, especially on tickover which disappears when the revs increase at around 1000 to 1100 rpm.

Now it is more than 1000 Km later and the oil level is exactly on the MAX line but the ticking noise continues. But then again it is more than 15.000 Km that the tappets' clearance has not been adjusted.

Apart from the tappets what other thing could the clicking on tickover mean?

Take care and thanks for your input Pantelis

On or around Mon, 21 Aug 2006 08:38:05 +0300, "Pantelis Giamarellos" enlightened us thusly:

If it was really only 1mm over max, then I can't really see that being a problem. You can get more than that error on the stick by having the vehicle on a slight slope.

It depends on whether he's mentioned it within earshot of the vehicle. If it has heard him it will come up with something far more devious ;-)

Richard

See my previous post re: the soapy water - it certainly sounds like it could be the head gasket. Probably just a coincidence about the oil level though. Have you had a look at the air filter?

Richard

Nah, I think the old girl's deaf, but she likes me, I treat her right. ;-)

Martin