87 RRC a/t shift cable

I don't know personally, but Rimmer Bros

only list one cable for the 4 spd auto (and yes it is expensive) so that suggests the 89 may be the same.

On or around Mon, 21 Feb 2005 21:49:54 -0000, "Steve Medlock" enlightened us thusly:

's a fancy cable which pushes as well as pulls, not a normal type. I guess that's why it's pricey.

Austin Shackles wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

Thanks to you both for the input. I guess it makes sense that a 4-speed tranny cable is a 4-speed tranny cable, within the same model family, since the distance covered by the levers in the operators' hands will be the same.

I'm hoping that the fanciness of the cable means it's sturdy enough to be welded or crimped in order to be reattached at the operator's lever. When I first saw the stub of it poking into the box containing the lever and its machinations, I thought it to be a stopping bolt or the like. I didn't realize its true identity till I lifted the box out of the floor. At that point, I needed to get out of the cold. Hopefully I'll have time next weekend to do more about my poor, disabled Rangie.

Peace, Tor

Very unlikely, the weld would end up being a stress-point due to the temperature whilst welding and it would break quickly again. If you try to crimp, you will be altering the effective length and I doubt if there is enough adjustment at the gearbox end to compensate and actually get it set up right.

Buy the cable off ebay or wherever, and replace it. If you bodge it you'll only end up with it failing at the most inopertune moment in the most inhospitable place with the most inclement weather.

Badger.

I don't know what the score is the USA, but a motor bike shop specialising in classic bikes may well be abke to help mend the cable, as they often have to make them up for older bikes.

Richard

On or around Tue, 22 Feb 2005 08:45:01 +0000 (UTC), beamendsltd enlightened us thusly:

I reckon you'll be lucky, on that cable. It's a long way beyond a simple bowden cable.

Why not just accept the fact that the original has lasted for the best part of 18 years, a repair may not last or the cable will simply fail at the other end pretty soon. FWIW, spray some WD40 or similar penetrative / displacing fluid around the selector shaft where it enters the 'box to ease the cable force required as that is the prime cause of cables failing at the selector end. Bite the bullet and replace the cable with either new or known good. Badger.

"Badger" wrote in news:cvffnh$cce$ snipped-for-privacy@titan.btinternet.com:

I think this is the conclusion I'm inevitably coming to. More than one mechanic I've spoken with today has mentioned that the rest of the cable is too suspect. Thanks again to all of you for all your input!

Peace,

Tor