90 NA to 200 or 300tdi

How easy is it to do a swap?

Boxes OK etc?

Reply to
Nige
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Ive got a couple of mates doing this.

You can get the engine in and connected to the box and running in one day but it takes a lot longer to perfect the layout of the pipework for radiator, oil cooler and intercooler.

Have got 2 mates spending weeks doing the plumbing bits, and one who was driving it within a few days but keeps having problems with overheating and dodgy performance

It will fit onto the original g/box easily. I think you need to drill a couple of extra holes in the bellhousing - but it is easy as they are either there but currently too small, or marked ready for drilling.

Reply to
Tom Woods

Will be going this route. 200 tdi is easier than the 300 apparently.. somthing about engine mounts.

Here is a link.

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There is another forum that shows photos of the modification of the rad and intercooler mounts. They have to be chopped on the front cross member and lowered then rewelded.

Steve parker do a kit for the exhaust modification which I think is well worth it for the apernative of lots of faffing around.

Let us know when you are flogging it ;-)

Lee

Reply to
Lee_D

I wonder if the TD engine is easier?

Reply to
Nige

In article , Nige writes

Putting a TD IN: basically, don't even think of going there. It's apparently easy to do but less reliable than the NA lump. I'm told that the Garrett turbo is pretty much a stuck-on addition, and most of the rest of the engine is the same as the NA version, including mountings. My TD blew one or more rings and started running on its own oil, which was scary (and ruined it). It was horrible (OK the NA is worse), but the TDi is great.

Swapping a TD for a 200 TDi: Marge had this done with a Disco donor engine.

There is a bit of the passenger footwell that needs removing (basically rounding the front inner corner off). You're right: the pipework was tricky, more so because she has a snorkel and the inlet routing is tricky, but the lads knew their stuff.

She now has a Kenlowe fan on the front, bags of space in front of the engine and some long, straight-ish pipe runs to/from the rad/intercooler. I think one or two of the mounts have to be moved on the frame - they did this and the footwell when they had access.

I do like the 200 TDi though. Even in this weather she's still starting

1st turn of the key and it's very willing and driveable. Apparently, I'd get better top speed etc. if I had a Disco box in it too, but the one from the donor was already spoken for, and around town it's of no consequence really.

HTH,

S.

PS: Marge is a 22-year-old 110 CSW.

Reply to
SpamTrapSeeSig

Engine mounts are different between 200 and 300, but more importantly I seem to recall someone telling me that the 300Tdi has a different crank and flywheel, and the spigot for the gearbox input shaft is a different size. So the 300 will not take a R380 gearbox and the 200 won't take the LT77.

Alex

Reply to
Alex

"SpamTrapSeeSig" wrote...........

It's just the transfer box you need to change, taken from Disco or RRC. The ratio is on a sticky label underneath.

Reply to
Oily

"Alex" wrote........

200Tdi uses the LT77 and 300Tdi the R380
Reply to
Oily

In article , Oily writes

Thanks for that - possibly something for the summer, but although it's a nuisance on the motorway, those occasions are rare, and round town she's just fine.

Incidental question though: my bog-standard difflock light has stopped working recently. It may just be damp at the back of the panel, or those fuseholders, but if it isn't...

To my possible shame I haven't needed difflock at all until the last couple of days, and then only for very short times. When I tried it then I wasn't convinced it was engaging, but I still had drive when I put the lever over to the left side of the Xfer box, in both ratios.

So is it probably just the indication switch or do I need to worry about an Xfer box problem?

I haven't checked the box's oil level recently, but it's always been leak-tight and the last check was about 1500 miles ago at worst I don't have a nice level spot to do it, which is a nuisance). I've no other reason to suspect problems - she goes from high to low and back just fine.

As I say, big, narrow wheels and 4x4, some weight and a nice engine mean I've had no problems getting around so far

Right now she's just the job and running nicely so, with the exception of WD40 in the locks and on the door rubbers (stops them freezing), I'm not messing with anything... :-)

Thoughts?

Cheers,

S.

Reply to
SpamTrapSeeSig

Ayup matey, you got any 90 bits at yours?

Reply to
Nige

"Nige" wrote...........

Not a lot now matey, I haven't done much for a couple of years. Mainly running gear transmission stuff, gearboxes, RR axles, bushes etc. Bugger all bodywork apart from 2 new genuine front door window glasses (wind up type) an odd bonnet or two and front panel, and quite a few odds and sods. I haven't got a rear crossmember though. :-)

Reply to
Oily

I have one of those, part of the deal :) Just gotta get it fit now.

Reply to
Nige

"SpamTrapSeeSig" wrote...........

Obviously the linkages are not seized then, it's a good idea to oil them occasionally in the nice weather.

It's probably just the wire on the transfer case that's been knocked off in deep snow but it might be the dash connections, sometimes they can get a bit dicky

Way to go.

Reply to
Oily

I could do it all apart from the welding, useless!

Reply to
Nige

If I hadn't been getting so old and knackered I would have offered. I even missed the Manx this year. :-(

Reply to
Oily

The welding's no problem, I can do that for you.

Reply to
Oily

Serious, have you got an undercover area i could borrow?

I reckon i could have it sorted in a day? Ready to MOT then.

Reply to
Nige

YHM

Reply to
Oily

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